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Category: Digital Printing

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What You Need to Know About Label Adhesives

⚞ The Highlights:

  • Label adhesives come in three types by removability: permanent (stays put), removable (comes off cleanly), and repositionable (adjust, then it sets).
  • They’re built on two chemistries: acrylic (versatile, resists heat, moisture, and UV) and rubber-based (higher initial grab, lower cost, less resistant to heat and chemicals).
  • The right adhesive depends on the surface, the temperature at application and in use, moisture, and how the product is stored.
  • Hard-to-bond plastics (like HDPE and polypropylene) and cold or wet surfaces need specialized adhesives. That’s where most label failures start.

The adhesive is the part of a label nobody thinks about until it fails. It’s also one of the first things we check when a label won’t stay on. So here’s a plain-language rundown of the adhesive types, the chemistries behind them, and how to pick the right one for your product.

The short version: adhesives come in three types based on how they come off (permanent, removable, and repositionable), and they’re built on one of two chemistries (acrylic or rubber-based). Which one you need depends on the surface you’re sticking to, the temperature the label faces, and whether it needs to come off later. Get the adhesive right and the label stays put. Get it wrong and it peels, lifts, or won’t come off when it should.

The three types of label adhesive

The first way to sort adhesives is by removability, meaning how the label behaves when someone tries to take it off. It’s the distinction most buyers care about.

Adhesive Bond Removal Best for
Permanent Strong, long-term Hard to remove; tears or leaves residue Most product labels meant to stay put
Removable Light to moderate Peels off cleanly for a period of time Reusable containers, promos, temporary labels
Repositionable Low at first, builds over time Adjust freely at first, then it sets Hand application where placement accuracy matters

Permanent label adhesives

Permanent adhesives form a strong, lasting bond. Once the label is down and settled, taking it off usually tears the label or leaves adhesive residue behind. They’re the most common choice for product labels, because you want the label to stay on through the product’s whole life, including moisture, handling, and temperature changes. “Permanent” is really about clean removal: you can often get the label off with enough effort, but not without damage.

Removable adhesives

Removable adhesives hold well enough to do the job but come off cleanly, without residue, for a period of time. They’re the right choice for reusable containers, promotional labels a customer might peel, rental or returnable packaging, and anything meant to be temporary. One caveat: removable adhesives can lose their clean-removal quality over time or under temperature and humidity swings, and they generally aren’t the best pick for a bottle that sits in condensation.

Repositionable adhesives

Repositionable adhesives start with low tack, so you can lift and reposition the label to get placement right, then the bond builds toward permanent over time. They’re useful when labels go on by hand and getting the position exactly right matters, since you get a second (and third) chance before it sets.

Adhesive chemistry: acrylic vs. rubber-based

Underneath the removability type, nearly every label adhesive is built on one of two base chemistries. This is what drives durability, cost, and where the adhesive performs well.

Acrylic adhesives

Acrylic adhesives are synthetic and versatile. They resist heat, moisture, UV light, and many chemicals, and they bond reliably to a wide range of surfaces, including in wet or cold conditions. They tend to cost more than rubber-based options, but they’re the more durable, longer-lasting choice, which is why they’re common for beverage, outdoor, and demanding applications. Acrylics come in water-based and solvent-based versions, with solvent acrylics generally offering the strongest performance.

Rubber-based (hot melt) adhesives

Rubber-based adhesives offer higher initial tack (they grab fast) at a lower cost, and they perform well on recycled and corrugated surfaces and at cooler temperatures. The trade-off is durability. They hold up less well against heat, UV, and chemicals, and in some conditions they can soften and ooze at the label edges, which is what causes adhesive to build up and gum up labeling equipment. For a product facing heat, moisture, or a long shelf life, acrylic is usually the safer bet.

How adhesives are measured: tack, adhesion, and shear

When printers and adhesive suppliers talk about performance, three properties come up:

  • Tack is the initial grab, how quickly the adhesive sticks on first contact.
  • Adhesion (or peel) is the ultimate bond strength once the adhesive has set.
  • Shear is resistance to sliding, how well the label stays in place under stress without creeping.

Different jobs need different balances. A label applied fast on a production line needs good tack. A label that has to hold on a vertical, warm surface needs good shear. Matching these to your application is part of choosing the right adhesive.

 

Not sure which adhesive your product needs?
Tell us your container material, how it’s filled and stored, and whether the label needs to come off. We’ll match the adhesive so your labels hold, or release, exactly as they should.

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How to choose the right adhesive for your product

This is the part most definition pages skip. Choosing an adhesive comes down to matching it to your specific product and the conditions it lives in, not just reaching for the strongest one. Four factors drive the decision.

Match the adhesive to the surface

Different container materials bond differently, and that difference is measured as surface energy. High-surface-energy materials like glass, metal, and PET plastic are relatively easy to bond to. Low-surface-energy plastics like HDPE, polypropylene (PP), and other polyolefins are much harder, and a standard adhesive can lift right off them. Squeeze bottles, some jugs, and many plastic containers fall into this harder-to-bond group and need an adhesive chosen for it. Surface texture matters too: rough, uneven, or curved surfaces need a more aggressive or more flexible adhesive.

Account for temperature

Temperature matters at two moments: when the label goes on, and when the product is used or stored. Most adhesives have a minimum application temperature, so applying a label to a cold or chilled surface can keep it from bonding. And a label that will live in a refrigerator, a freezer, or a hot-fill process needs an adhesive rated for those conditions. Cold-temp and all-temp adhesives exist specifically for freezer and refrigerated products. If your labels peel in the fridge or freezer, the adhesive-temperature match is the first thing to check.

Account for moisture and condensation

Moisture is a common cause of label failure. Beverage bottles sweat, coolers are damp, and applying a label to a condensation-covered surface can keep the adhesive from ever fully bonding. For wet environments and cold, damp containers, you want a permanent acrylic adhesive rated for moisture rather than a removable or rubber-based one.

Consider storage and application

How fast the label goes on (line speed), how the product is stored afterward, and how long before it’s sold all factor in. A high-speed line needs good tack. Long storage in a warm warehouse needs good shear and heat resistance. The more you can tell your printer about the full journey, the better the adhesive match.

Common adhesive problems and how to avoid them

Most label-adhesive complaints come down to a handful of avoidable issues.

Edge lift and peeling

When a label’s edges curl up or it peels off, the usual causes are a low-surface-energy plastic, a cold or wet surface at application, or a squeeze/curved container flexing against a too-rigid adhesive. The fix is matching the adhesive to the surface and application temperature, rather than just reaching for a “stronger” glue.

Ooze and machine gumming

Adhesive squeezing out from the label edges, sometimes gumming up labeling equipment, points to the wrong adhesive for the conditions (often a softer rubber-based adhesive in heat) or a storage temperature issue. An acrylic adhesive and proper storage usually solve it.

Getting the adhesive right

The label material and design get the attention, but the adhesive is what keeps the label on the product. The three types (permanent, removable, repositionable) and two chemistries (acrylic, rubber-based) give you the vocabulary. The real decision is matching the adhesive to your surface, temperature, moisture, and use. That’s the part we help with.

Tell us about your container and how it lives, and we’ll match the adhesive so your labels behave exactly as they should. Request a sample pack to test materials and adhesives on your container, or get in touch and we’ll help you choose.

Frequently asked questions

What are the different types of label adhesives?

Label adhesives come in three types by removability: permanent (a strong, lasting bond that’s hard to remove cleanly), removable (holds well but peels off without residue for a period of time), and repositionable (low initial tack so you can adjust placement, then it builds toward permanent). Underneath, each is built on either an acrylic or a rubber-based chemistry.

What is the difference between permanent and removable adhesive?

A permanent adhesive forms a strong, long-term bond, and removing the label usually tears it or leaves residue, so it’s used for labels meant to stay put. A removable adhesive holds well enough to do the job but comes off cleanly without residue for a period of time, making it right for reusable containers, promotions, and temporary labels.

What is a repositionable adhesive?

A repositionable adhesive starts with low tack so you can lift and reposition the label to get placement right, then the bond gradually builds toward permanent over time. It’s useful for hand-applied labels where accurate placement matters, because you get several chances to adjust before it sets.

What is the difference between acrylic and rubber-based adhesive?

Acrylic adhesives are synthetic and versatile, resisting heat, moisture, UV, and chemicals and bonding to many surfaces including in wet or cold conditions, at a higher cost. Rubber-based adhesives grab faster (higher initial tack) and cost less, and perform well on recycled surfaces and at cool temperatures, but they resist heat, UV, and chemicals less well and can ooze in heat. Acrylic is usually better for demanding or long-life applications.

How do I choose the right label adhesive?

Match the adhesive to four factors: the container surface (high-energy materials like glass and PET bond easily, while low-energy plastics like HDPE and polypropylene need specialized adhesives), the temperature at application and in use (cold, freezer, and hot-fill each need rated adhesives), moisture and condensation, and how the product is stored. The best adhesive is the one matched to those conditions, not automatically the strongest one.

Ready to get the adhesive right?

The adhesive is easy to overlook and expensive to get wrong. Tell us about your container and conditions, and we’ll match it. Request a sample pack to test on your container, or get in touch and we’ll walk through it with you.

More on label adhesives and keeping labels on:

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Considerations for Waterproof Labels

⚞ The Highlights:

  • A waterproof label is a system, not a single material. The film, the adhesive, and the printed ink all have to hold up to water.
  • Use a plastic film (BOPP, polyester, polyolefin, or vinyl), never plain paper, since paper absorbs water and fails.
  • Pair the film with a permanent, moisture-resistant adhesive. A waterproof material with the wrong adhesive still peels.
  • Protect the print with a laminate or varnish so the ink doesn’t smear or fade when wet.
  • “Waterproof” and “water-resistant” aren’t the same. Match the level of protection to how much water and for how long.

A waterproof label is three things working together: a waterproof film, a moisture-resistant adhesive, and a protected print. Skip any one of the three and the label fails, even if the other two are perfect. Put a water-soluble ink on a waterproof film and it smears. Pair that same film with a cheap adhesive and it peels. Get all three right and the label survives water.

We print a lot of labels for products that get wet, beverages, cosmetics, cleaning products, outdoor gear, so we see exactly where waterproof labels succeed and fail. Here’s what goes into a genuinely waterproof label, the materials and adhesives to use, and how to match the protection to your product.

Are labels really waterproof?

It depends on how you define it. No everyday product label survives being fully submerged forever, but a label built from the right film, adhesive, and finish is effectively waterproof for normal use: coolers, ice baths, condensation, refrigerators, splashes, and handling with wet hands. The useful distinction is between two levels of protection:

  • Water-resistant labels handle occasional splashes or brief moisture without immediate damage.
  • Waterproof labels hold up to sustained moisture, submersion, ice, and condensation without the label or print failing.

For a bottle that lives in a cooler or a shower, you want the waterproof end of that range. Match the level to reality: a shelf-stable pantry item needs less than a craft beverage that spends its life in ice.

What makes a label waterproof?

Three parts of the label each have to be waterproof. Thinking about all three is what prevents most failures, because brands tend to focus on the material and forget the other two.

The material

The face material has to not absorb water. That means a plastic film, not paper. Films like BOPP, polyester, polyolefin, and vinyl repel water; paper wicks it up and breaks down. The film is the foundation, but it’s only one third of the system.

The adhesive

The adhesive is the most overlooked part. A waterproof film with a standard or removable adhesive will still lift and peel in a wet environment, because water works its way under the edges. You need a permanent, moisture-resistant adhesive matched to the surface and conditions. A mismatched adhesive is the single most common reason a “waterproof” label fails once it’s out on real products.

The ink and finish

The print itself has to resist water too. Professionally printed labels use water-fast inks, but the ink still benefits from a protective top layer, a laminate or varnish, that shields it from smearing, scratching, and fading when wet. (This is also why home-printed inkjet labels smear in water: consumer inks aren’t water-fast and usually aren’t protected.) A laminate or varnish is what locks the whole system together.

Worth knowing: When a waterproof label fails, it’s almost never the film. It’s the adhesive letting go at the edges or the unprotected ink smearing. If you only remember one thing: waterproof the adhesive and the print, not just the material.

Choosing a waterproof label material

Several plastic films work for waterproof labels. They’re all waterproof; they differ in flexibility, clarity, durability, and cost.

Material Waterproof Strengths Best for
BOPP (polypropylene) Yes Cost-effective, clear/white/metallic, great print Most beverages and everyday products
Polyester (PET) Yes Very durable, UV-stable, rigid Outdoor products, harsh conditions
Polyolefin Yes Highly flexible, conforms and rebounds Squeeze bottles and flexible containers
Vinyl Yes Rugged, conformable, abrasion-resistant Heavy-duty, outdoor, rough handling

BOPP (polypropylene)

BOPP is the go-to for most waterproof product labels. It’s fully waterproof, prints beautifully, comes in clear, white, and metallic, and is cost-effective. For beverages and everyday products, it’s usually the right starting point.

Polyester (PET)

Polyester is more rigid and extremely durable, with strong UV resistance. It’s the pick when a label faces sun, heat, or harsh outdoor conditions and needs to hold its shape and print for a long time.

Polyolefin

Polyolefin is highly flexible, so it conforms to squeeze bottles and springs back rather than wrinkling. If your container gets squeezed (lotions, sauces, some cleaners), polyolefin handles the flexing better than stiffer films.

Vinyl

Vinyl is the most rugged option, built for abrasion, outdoor exposure, and rough handling. It costs more, but for a label that takes a beating in wet, tough conditions, it earns it. For a fuller comparison, see our post on BOPP vs. vinyl.

Why not paper?

Plain paper absorbs water, so it wrinkles, discolors, and disintegrates in wet conditions. There are wet-strength papers (treated so they don’t break down from moisture) and coated papers that hold up better, but for anything that will be genuinely wet, a plastic film is the reliable choice. If you love the look of paper, a film with a paper-like texture or a laminated coated paper can get you closer without the failure.

Finishes and lamination for extra protection

The finish over your print is the third piece of the waterproof system, and it does double duty: protection and appearance.

Gloss and matte laminates

A laminate is a thin clear film applied over the printed label. It’s the strongest protection for the ink, shielding it from water, abrasion, and UV. Gloss laminate adds shine and vibrancy (a natural fit for beverages), while matte laminate gives a softer, premium look. Either one meaningfully boosts durability.

Varnish vs. laminate

A varnish is a liquid coating applied and cured over the print, thinner than a laminate. Varnishes protect the ink and can be gloss or matte, but a laminate generally offers more protection for demanding wet conditions. Our guide to laminates vs. varnishes breaks down the trade-offs.

Choosing a waterproof adhesive

Since the adhesive is the most common failure point, it deserves as much attention as the material. For wet environments, use a permanent, moisture-resistant adhesive, typically an acrylic, chosen for the surface and conditions. Avoid removable adhesives, which lose grip in moisture. If the container is filled or labeled cold, or lives in ice or a freezer, you need an adhesive rated for cold or wet application, not a standard one. We cover this in depth in our guide to label adhesives.

Need labels that survive water, ice, and handling?

Tell us about your product and where it lives, and we’ll build the full system, film, adhesive, and finish, so your labels don’t peel, smear, or fade.

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Plan around your environment

The right waterproof label depends on more than “it gets wet.” Four environmental factors shape the spec.

Application environment

If the container is wet or cold when the label goes on, you need a wet-apply or cold-temp adhesive. Applying a standard adhesive to a damp or chilled surface is a common cause of edges lifting later.

Shipping and storage

Labels can face humidity and temperature swings in transit and storage. Store label stock in stable conditions, and choose materials and adhesives that tolerate the temperatures your product will see before it reaches the customer.

Product use

Think about the product’s life in the customer’s hands. A freezer product needs a freezer-grade adhesive; a shower or poolside product faces constant humidity; a beauty product may encounter oils and heat. Match the label to the toughest condition it will regularly face.

What’s inside the bottle

The contents matter too. Oils, solvents, and certain cosmetic formulas can attack a label’s adhesive or ink from the surface if there’s any transfer or spillage. For oily or chemical products, choose a material and adhesive with the right resistance.

How do you make waterproof labels?

How you make a waterproof label depends on scale. For a product line, professional printing on film is the reliable route. For a handful of personal or small-batch labels, there are DIY options, with limits worth knowing.

DIY options for small scale

For personal projects or very small batches, you can get water-resistance with waterproof sticker sheets (vinyl or synthetic) run through a laser printer, since laser toner resists water better than inkjet ink. Adding a clear laminate sheet or a waterproofing spray over the top helps protect the print. The catch: home inkjet printers use water-based inks that smear, so an inkjet label needs lamination just to survive water. And DIY results tend to be inconsistent for something you’re selling to customers.

When to go professional

Once labels go on a product you sell, professional printing is worth it. A commercial printer uses water-fast inks on a true film stock, pairs it with a moisture-resistant adhesive, and adds a laminate or varnish, the full system, produced consistently across your whole run. That level of consistency and durability is hard to match at a desk, and it’s the difference between a label that looks professional in a cooler and one that curls at the corners.

Who uses waterproof labels?

Waterproof labels show up anywhere a product meets moisture:

  • Beverages: bottles and cans that sweat, sit in ice, and get handled wet.
  • Beauty and personal care: shampoo, lotion, and shower products in humid environments.
  • Household and cleaning: spray bottles and containers exposed to water and chemicals.
  • Food: refrigerated and frozen products, and anything washed or wiped down.
  • Outdoor products: gear that faces rain, sun, and rough conditions.

Getting your waterproof labels right

A waterproof label comes down to three things working together: a film that won’t absorb water, a moisture-resistant adhesive that holds through wet and cold, and a protected print that won’t smear or fade. Nail all three and match them to your environment, and your label survives whatever your product goes through.

That’s the system we build for products that get wet. Request a sample pack to feel the waterproof films and finishes, or get in touch with your product and we’ll spec a label built to last.

Frequently asked questions

What makes a label waterproof?

A waterproof label is a system of three parts that all resist water: a plastic film face material (not paper), a permanent moisture-resistant adhesive, and a protected print (water-fast ink with a laminate or varnish over it). If any one of the three fails, the label fails, even if the other two are correct. The film is the foundation, but the adhesive and the ink protection are where most failures happen.

What is the difference between waterproof and water-resistant labels?

Water-resistant labels handle occasional splashes or brief moisture without immediate damage. Waterproof labels hold up to sustained moisture, submersion, ice, and condensation without the label or print failing. For products that live in coolers, ice, or humid environments, you want the waterproof level; match the protection to how much water the label will face and for how long.

What is the best material for waterproof labels?

A plastic film, not paper. BOPP (polypropylene) is the cost-effective default for most waterproof product labels and prints beautifully. Polyester (PET) is more durable and UV-stable for outdoor use. Polyolefin is highly flexible for squeeze bottles. Vinyl is the most rugged for rough or outdoor conditions. All are waterproof; they differ in flexibility, durability, and cost.

Why do waterproof labels still peel?

Usually because of the adhesive, not the material. A waterproof film paired with a standard or removable adhesive will still lift as water works under the edges, especially on cold or wet containers. Waterproof labels need a permanent, moisture-resistant adhesive matched to the surface and conditions, including a cold- or wet-apply adhesive if the container is chilled or damp when labeled.

How do you make waterproof labels?

For products you sell, the reliable route is professional printing on a film stock with water-fast ink, a moisture-resistant adhesive, and a laminate or varnish. For small personal projects, you can use waterproof vinyl or synthetic sticker sheets in a laser printer (toner resists water better than inkjet ink) and add a clear laminate or waterproofing spray, though DIY results are less consistent.

Do waterproof labels need lamination?

Lamination isn’t always required, but it significantly improves durability by protecting the ink from water, abrasion, and UV. A laminate (a thin clear film over the print) offers more protection than a varnish (a thinner liquid coating). For demanding wet conditions, a laminate is worth it; for lighter exposure, a varnish may be enough.

Ready for labels that survive water?

Tell us about your product and where it lives, and we’ll build the full waterproof system for it. Request a sample pack to feel the materials and finishes, or get in touch and we’ll help you spec it.

More on durable, water-ready labels:

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Digital vs. Flexographic Printing: Which is Right for Your Labels?

⚞ The Highlights:

  • Flexographic (flexo) printing uses custom plates, one per color, so it has setup cost up front but gets very cheap per label on long runs.
  • Digital printing uses no plates, so it’s faster to start, better for short and mid-size runs, and ideal for multiple SKUs, frequent design changes, and photographic detail.
  • For most craft and emerging brands, digital is the better fit. Flexo earns its keep at very high, steady volume or for certain specialty inks and flood coats.
  • You don’t always have to choose. Hybrid presses and finishing stations combine digital’s flexibility with flexo’s specialty effects.

If you’re choosing between digital and flexographic (flexo) printing for your labels, the answer usually comes down to your run size and how often your artwork changes. Digital printing is usually the better fit for short-to-mid runs, multiple SKUs, and detailed artwork, while flexo wins on cost per label at very high, steady volumes. Digital uses no plates, so it’s faster to start and cheaper for smaller quantities. Flexo has upfront plate and setup costs that only pay off once you’re printing hundreds of thousands of the same label.

We run digital presses (HP Indigo) and work with flexo, so we help brands make this call all the time. The right answer depends on your run size, how often your art changes, how many SKUs you have, and whether you need a specialty ink. Here’s how the two methods compare across the things that actually decide it.

Flexographic vs. digital printing: how they work

The core difference is plates. Flexo uses them; digital doesn’t. That one distinction drives almost every other trade-off between the two.

How does flexographic printing work?

Flexographic printing uses flexible relief plates, one for each color in your design, mounted on rotating cylinders. A roller applies an even coat of ink to each plate, and the plate presses the image onto the label material as it runs through the press. It’s a modern, high-speed descendant of traditional relief printing. Because each color needs its own plate and careful alignment, there’s meaningful setup before the first good label comes off the press.

How does digital printing work?

Digital printing skips plates entirely. The press prints straight from your digital file, the same idea as an office printer, but built for commercial label production. Our HP Indigo presses use a liquid ink process that transfers the image through a heated blanket onto the material, producing sharp, photographic results. Because there’s no tooling to make, a digital job can go from file to finished labels quickly, and switching designs is as simple as sending a new file.

A digital printing press used for digital vs. flexo printing.

Comparing cost

Cost is where the plate difference matters most. The real question is which method is cheaper for your run size, not which is cheaper overall.

What does flexographic printing cost?

Flexo carries upfront tooling cost. Every color needs its own plate, so a job with four SKUs at four colors each can mean sixteen plates before you print anything, plus the labor to mount and align them and the material wasted getting every color to line up. Those costs are fixed, so they spread thinner the more labels you print. On a run of hundreds of thousands of identical labels, the per-label cost drops low. On a small run, that same setup makes each label expensive.

What does digital printing cost?

Digital has little to no setup cost because there are no plates. That makes the per-label price steady across small and mid-size runs, which is a big advantage for a brand ordering a few hundred or a few thousand labels, or splitting a run across several designs. At very high volumes, flexo’s plate cost spreads thin enough to undercut digital, but most craft and emerging brands never reach the quantity where that flips.

Worth knowing: The break-even point between the two moves with your design and material, but for a lot of craft beverage and CPG work, digital stays cheaper well into the tens of thousands of labels. If you’re ordering multiple SKUs in smaller quantities, digital usually wins on total cost, not just setup.

Comparing print quality

Both methods produce professional labels, but they have different strengths on the page.

Print quality with flexographic printing

Flexo delivers strong, consistent solid colors over long runs, which is why it’s trusted for big national brands that need every label to match across millions of units. Where it works harder is fine detail: small text, subtle gradients, and detailed photos can lose a little sharpness. Flexo’s biggest quality edge is specialty inks, which we’ll get to.

Print quality with digital printing

Digital shines on detail. It reproduces sharp small text, smooth gradients, and photo-quality imagery with precise color management, so a complex, art-forward label tends to look its best in digital. The historical gap has been specialty inks, though that’s narrowing as digital presses add capabilities like opaque white and a wider color range. For a deeper look at expanded color, see our post on 7-color printing for labels.

Comparing materials and finishes

Both methods handle a wide range of label materials, papers, films, metallics, and textured stocks, so material choice usually isn’t the deciding factor.

Materials for flexographic printing

Flexo works across most label materials and is a strong choice for durable, long-run jobs, including waterproof films built for demanding conditions. It also pairs naturally with inline specialty coatings on a long run.

Materials for digital printing

Digital handles the same broad range of films and papers, with the added benefit that you can run different materials or designs without re-tooling. That flexibility is part of why digital suits brands testing materials or running multiple SKUs. If you’re weighing stocks, our guide to selecting a label material walks through the options.

Comparing turnaround time

Speed follows the plates again.

Turnaround with flexographic printing

Flexo needs setup time to make and align plates before a run, which can add days on the front end. Once it’s dialed in, it prints large volumes fast. So flexo’s turnaround is slow to start but quick to finish a big order.

Turnaround with digital printing

Digital skips tooling, so a job can move from approved file to printed labels quickly, and changes or reprints are fast because there’s nothing to re-make. For brands chasing a seasonal window or a launch date, that speed is often the deciding factor.

Not sure which method fits your labels?

Tell us your run size, SKU count, and artwork, and we’ll recommend the right print method, digital or flexo, for your job. No pressure, just a straight answer.
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Comparing specialty inks and finishes

This is flexo’s clearest advantage. Flexo readily handles flood coats (a solid color or coating across the whole label) and specialty inks like metallics, fluorescents, and certain opaque whites, and it can add varnishes and coatings inline on a long run. Digital has historically been more limited here, though modern presses now cover more specialty effects than they used to, and finishing steps can add many of the same touches. If a specific metallic or fluorescent ink is central to your design, that may point toward flexo or a hybrid setup.

Comparing durability

Durability comes more from the material and finish than from the print method itself. Flexo has a long track record on labels built for extreme moisture, heat, and abrasion. Digital labels hold up well for everyday use and, with the right material and a protective laminate or varnish, stand up to demanding conditions too. For most beverage and CPG products, either method paired with the right material and finish will last.

Which should you choose? A shop that runs both

Here’s the framework we use when a brand asks us which method fits. Run your job through these questions.

Choose digital when…

  • Your run is small to mid-size (a few hundred to tens of thousands per design).
  • You have multiple SKUs, seasonal releases, or artwork that changes often.
  • Your label leans on fine detail, gradients, or photographic imagery.
  • You need labels fast, or you want to test designs and materials before committing.
  • You want to split one order across several designs.

Choose flexo when…

  • You’re printing very high, steady volumes of the same label.
  • A specific specialty ink or flood coat is central to the design.
  • Per-label cost at massive scale matters more than flexibility.

What about most craft and emerging brands?

For the brands we work with most, breweries, distilleries, and growing CPG companies, digital is usually the better fit. Short runs, multiple SKUs, frequent design changes, and detailed artwork all play to digital’s strengths, and few of these brands hit the sustained volume where flexo’s per-label cost pulls ahead. Still, it’s worth confirming for your specific job, and we’ll give you a straight answer either way.

A digital label printer utilizing flexo label printing techniques for finishing.

Can you combine digital and flexo?

Yes, and it’s often the best of both. Hybrid presses and finishing stations pair digital’s flexibility and detail with flexo’s ability to lay down specialty coatings and effects inline. That means you can get a detailed, multi-SKU-friendly digital print and still add a metallic accent or a flood varnish without committing to a full flexo setup. If your design wants digital detail and a flexo-style finish, a hybrid approach is worth exploring.

Finding the right label printing partner

The method matters, but the partner matters more. A printer who runs digital and understands flexo can point you to the right method for each job instead of forcing everything onto the one press they own. That’s how we work. We’ll recommend what fits your run size, SKUs, and artwork.

If you’re deciding how to print your next labels, we’re happy to talk it through. Request a sample pack to see our print quality and materials, or get in touch with your run size and artwork and we’ll recommend the right method.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between digital and flexographic label printing?

Flexographic printing uses custom plates, one per color, mounted on cylinders, which means setup cost but very low per-label cost on long runs. Digital printing uses no plates and prints straight from a file, so it starts faster and is cheaper for short and mid-size runs, multiple SKUs, and detailed artwork. The plate difference drives almost every other trade-off between the two.

Is digital or flexographic printing cheaper?

It depends on run size. Digital is cheaper for small and mid-size runs because there are no plates or lengthy setup. Flexographic becomes cheaper per label at very high, steady volumes, where the fixed plate and setup costs spread across hundreds of thousands of identical labels. For most craft and emerging brands, digital stays cheaper well into the tens of thousands of labels.

What is flexographic printing?

Flexographic printing is a high-speed method that uses flexible relief plates, one for each color, mounted on rotating cylinders. A roller applies an even coat of ink to each plate, which then presses the image onto the label material. It delivers consistent solid colors over long runs and handles specialty inks and flood coats well, but it requires plate-making and setup before printing.

Which is better for small runs and multiple SKUs?

Digital printing is better for small runs and multiple SKUs. Because it uses no plates, there’s no per-color tooling cost, so printing several designs in smaller quantities stays affordable, and switching designs just means sending a new file. This makes digital the usual choice for seasonal releases, test runs, and brands with many SKUs.

Does digital printing match flexo on quality?

For fine detail, gradients, and photographic images, digital printing generally matches or exceeds flexo thanks to sharp resolution and precise color management. Flexo’s edge is specialty inks such as metallics and fluorescents and consistent solid colors over very long runs. The quality gap on specialty inks is narrowing as digital presses add capabilities like opaque white and a wider color range.

Can you combine digital and flexographic printing?

Yes. Hybrid presses and finishing stations combine digital’s flexibility and detail with flexo’s ability to apply specialty coatings and effects inline. This lets you print a detailed, multi-SKU-friendly digital label and still add a metallic accent or flood varnish without committing to a full flexographic setup.

Ready to print your labels?

Whether digital or flexo fits your job, we’ll help you get it right. Request a sample pack to see our print quality, or get in touch with your run size and artwork.

More on label printing methods and quality:

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What Is a Co-Packer and How Do You Find the Right One?

⚞ The Highlights:

  • A co-packer (short for contract packager) packages your product for retail so you can focus on making it. Some co-packers also manufacture the product for you, which makes them a contract manufacturer.
  • The right co-packer depends on your product type, your volume, the certifications your category requires, and how much of the process you want to hand off.
  • Vet candidates on capacity, quality certifications (SQF, BRC, GMP), relevant experience, minimum orders, and lead times. Then start with a small trial run before you commit.
  • Expect per-unit or per-case pricing plus setup fees and minimum order quantities. Get all of it in writing up front so the quote is the number you actually pay.
  • One detail brands miss: your co-packer’s labeling line has specific requirements for how your labels are made and rolled. Getting the label spec right is the difference between a smooth run and a jammed line.

A co-packer, short for contract packager, is a company that packages your product for retail so you don’t have to. You hand off the filling, labeling, assembly, and packing, and you get back finished product that’s ready for the shelf. The term is often used interchangeably with contract packager, and when a co-packer also makes the product for you, people call it a contract manufacturer or co-manufacturer.

For a growing brand, a co-packer is usually the answer to a simple problem: demand has outrun what you can package by hand. We work with dozens of co-packers to print the labels that go on their lines, so we see both sides of this relationship every week. Below is what a co-packer does, how to find one that fits your product, what to expect on cost, and a label detail that trips up more brands than it should.

What is a co-packer?

A co-packer is a third-party company that packages your product to your exact specifications. That can mean filling bottles, applying labels, assembling multipacks, or boxing finished goods for distribution. The core idea is that you own the product and the brand, and the co-packer owns the equipment, the labor, and the packaging know-how to get it retail-ready at volume.

What does a co-packer actually do?

Most co-packers handle some or all of these jobs:

  • Filling. Putting your product into its container, whether that’s liquid into bottles and cans, powder into pouches, or dry goods into jars.
  • Labeling. Applying labels, shrink sleeves, or other decoration to the container on automated lines.
  • Assembly and kitting. Building variety packs, gift sets, subscription boxes, or promotional bundles.
  • Case packing. Boxing finished units and palletizing them for shipping to retailers or distributors.
  • Sourcing. Some co-packers buy your packaging materials for you, from containers to closures to labels.

The scope varies a lot from one co-packer to the next. Some only handle the packing step after your product is made. Others run the whole process from raw ingredients to a palletized finished product, which is sometimes called a turnkey or full-service operation.

Bottles being packaged

Co-packer vs. contract manufacturer vs. private label

These three terms get mixed up constantly, and the difference comes down to who makes the product and who owns the recipe. Here’s a quick way to keep them straight.

Co-Packer (Contract Packager) Contract Manufacturer (Co-Man) Private Label
What they do Package a product you already made Make and package your product to your formula Make their own product for you to brand
Who owns the recipe You do You do The manufacturer does
Best for Brands that make the product but can’t package at scale Brands with a recipe but no production capacity Brands that want a ready-made product fast
Typical scope Filling, labeling, assembly, case packing Production plus packaging (turnkey) Their recipe, your label

In practice, the lines blur. A single company may offer all three, and a full-service co-packer often does light manufacturing too. The label you put on the product is yours in every case, which is where we usually enter the picture.

What kinds of products use co-packers?

Co-packers work across food, beverage, supplements, personal care, household goods, pet products, and more. Any brand that sells a physical product in volume is a candidate. Think of a hot sauce maker filling and labeling bottles, a kombucha brand canning at scale, a supplement company filling capsule bottles, or a coffee roaster bagging and sealing. Once hand-packing stops keeping up, a co-packer takes over.

Why work with a co-packer?

Most brands bring in a co-packer for one reason: it frees you to focus on the product and the brand. Someone with the right equipment handles the packaging at a speed and scale you can’t match by hand. That trade has real benefits, and a few honest trade-offs worth knowing before you sign anything.

What are the benefits of using a co-packer?

  • Lower cost at volume. Co-packers buy materials in bulk and run efficient lines, so per-unit packaging cost usually drops compared to doing it yourself.
  • Speed and capacity. An automated line packs in an hour what a small team packs in a day, which matters when you’re chasing a retail launch or a seasonal window.
  • Room to scale. You can add SKUs or grow volume without buying equipment, leasing space, or hiring a packaging crew.
  • Compliance help. Experienced co-packers know the food-safety and labeling rules for your category and build them into the process.
  • Fewer headaches. Sourcing, quality checks, and logistics move off your plate and onto a partner who does this all day.

What are the trade-offs to know going in?

A co-packer is a partner, not a magic button. Handing off packaging means handing off some control, so go in with eyes open:

  • Minimum order quantities. Many co-packers set minimums that can feel steep for an early brand. Ask early so there are no surprises.
  • Less hands-on control. You’re trusting someone else with quality and timing, which makes clear specs and good communication essential.
  • Lead times. Your product now sits in someone else’s production schedule. Plan releases around their calendar, not just yours.
  • Setup and change costs. New projects and design changes can carry setup fees. Worth knowing before you iterate on packaging.

Worth knowing: The most common co-packer complaint we hear from brands isn’t price. It’s surprises, like a minimum they didn’t expect or a label that jammed the line on day one. Almost all of it is avoidable with clear specs and a trial run before the full production commitment.

Do you need a co-packer, or a contract manufacturer?

Ask one question: do you already make the product? If you make it and just need help packaging at scale, you want a co-packer. If you have a recipe but no way to produce it, you want a contract manufacturer (co-man) that handles both making and packing. Plenty of brands start with a co-man for production, then keep the same partner for packaging, which is why the roles overlap so often.

Working with a co-packer and need labels that run clean on their line?

We print labels for dozens of co-packers and can match your labels to their applicator specs, so your run doesn’t stall on day one.

Request a Quote Get a Sample Pack

 

How to find the right co-packer

Finding a co-packer takes a mix of directory research, industry networking, and old-fashioned reference-checking. Most co-packers do very little marketing of their own, so the good ones can be surprisingly hard to surface with a plain Google search. Here’s where to look and how to sort the fit from the rest.

Where do you find a co-packer?

  • Industry directories and associations. The Contract Packaging Association keeps a member directory and a request-for-quote tool. Thomasnet lists thousands of co-packing and contract-packaging suppliers you can filter by location and certification.
  • Matching platforms. Services like PartnerSlate connect brands with co-packers and co-manufacturers by product type and requirements.
  • Category-specific resources. Beverage brands often start with BevNET’s co-packing listings; specialty food brands use specialty-food co-packer directories.
  • Trade shows. Events like PACK EXPO and ProPak put a lot of co-packers in one room, which is one of the fastest ways to compare capabilities in person.
  • Word of mouth. Your peers are the best filter. Ask other founders in your category who they use and, just as usefully, who they’ve left.

What should you look for when vetting a co-packer?

Once you have a shortlist, weigh each candidate against the things that predict a good run:

  • Capacity. Can they scale with you without dropping quality? A facility tour tells you a lot about how they handle peak season.
  • Quality assurance. Look for documented quality-control processes and real certifications, not just a claim on the website.
  • Relevant experience. A co-packer that already runs products like yours will hit fewer surprises. Beverage, food, and supplement lines each have their own quirks.
  • Flexibility. Understand their lead times, minimums, and how they handle a rush or a last-minute change.
  • Communication. You want a partner who answers the phone and flags problems early. This is the single biggest driver of whether the relationship lasts.

Which certifications matter?

The certifications you need depend on your category, but these are the ones that come up most often:

  • SQF, BRC, or FSSC 22000. Globally recognized food-safety standards. Retailers frequently require one before they’ll stock a product.
  • GMP and HACCP. Good Manufacturing Practices and hazard-analysis systems that show a co-packer runs a clean, disciplined operation.
  • FDA facility registration. Required for food and beverage co-packers in the U.S., and a quick thing to verify in the FDA database.
  • Organic, Non-GMO, or kosher. Product-specific certifications you’ll need if those claims appear on your label.

Quick note: If a claim like “organic” or “non-GMO” is going on your label, your co-packer needs the matching certification to back it up. A label claim your packing facility can’t support is a compliance problem waiting to happen.

What questions should you ask before you commit?

Before you sign, get clear answers on the things that turn into disputes later:

  • What’s your minimum order quantity, and can it be split across SKUs?
  • What’s your typical lead time from approved artwork to finished product?
  • Do you source packaging and labels, or do I supply them?
  • What are your setup fees, and what triggers a new one?
  • Can I visit the facility and see a run in progress?
  • Can you share references from brands in my category?

How much does a co-packer cost?

There’s no single price for co-packing. Most co-packers charge per unit or per case, and some charge by production weight or volume, with setup fees for new projects on top. The variables that move your number are run size (bigger runs lower the per-unit cost), product complexity, packaging format, and how much sourcing you hand off. Get a detailed, itemized quote up front so you can compare partners on total landed cost, not just the headline rate.

Why should you start with a trial run?

A trial run is the cheapest insurance you can buy. Before you commit to a long-term agreement or a large volume, run a small batch. It tests their quality control, their communication, and whether your packaging runs cleanly on their equipment. A trial run is also where label problems show up while they’re still cheap to fix, which is where the label handoff comes in.

The label handoff most brands overlook

Here’s the detail that causes more day-one delays than almost anything else: your labels have to be built for your co-packer’s specific labeling line, not just for the container. A label that looks perfect as a proof can still jam an automated applicator if the roll is wound the wrong way or the core is the wrong size. Because we print labels for dozens of co-packers, we see this happen, and it’s almost always preventable.

Who supplies the labels, you or the co-packer?

It goes both ways. Some co-packers source and print labels for you as part of the job. Many others ask you to supply your own labels to their spec, which gives you control over quality and finish but puts the responsibility on you to get the roll format right. Confirm which arrangement you’re in before your first run, because “we assumed you were handling it” is a bad thing to discover on packing day.

What label specs does your co-packer need?

If you’re supplying labels, your co-packer’s line will have requirements for how those labels are manufactured and rolled. The ones that matter most:

  • Unwind direction. Automated applicators need labels wound a specific way (which edge leads, and whether the label faces in or out). Get this wrong and the labels feed upside down or backward.
  • Core size. The cardboard core the label roll is wound on has to fit their equipment, commonly a 3-inch core, but confirm it.
  • Roll diameter. Every applicator has a maximum roll size it can hold. Too big and the roll won’t fit the machine.
  • Label material and adhesive. The material has to suit both the container and the application speed. A label that peels or curls on a fast line will cost you the whole run.
  • Labels per roll and gap. The spacing between labels and the count per roll affect how the line feeds and how often it has to stop for changeovers.

The fix is easy: ask your co-packer for their labeling-line spec sheet before you order labels, and hand it straight to your label printer. If you’d like a primer on one of these, our guide to determining your label unwind position walks through the most common source of confusion.

How do you avoid line jams and delays?

Coordinate the three parties early: you, your co-packer, and your label printer. Share the co-packer’s applicator specs with your printer before the labels are made, run a small proof through the actual line if you can, and confirm barcode placement and scan-readability on the finished container. A little coordination up front is far cheaper than a stopped line and a missed retail date.

Packaging boxes

Making the partnership work

Finding a co-packer is the start. The brands that get the most out of the relationship treat it like a long-term partnership, not a transaction.

How do you transition packaging to a co-packer?

  • Plan ahead. Talk through timelines, expectations, and likely obstacles before anything moves.
  • Manage inventory. Coordinate existing stock so you don’t run out during the switch or get stuck with waste.
  • Start with a pilot. Run initial batches to catch process adjustments before you scale.
  • Document everything. Materials, artwork files, label specs, and assembly instructions all go in writing, backed by a formal co-packing agreement.

How do you keep the relationship healthy?

  • Communicate regularly. Routine check-ins catch small issues before they become reprints or delays.
  • Review performance. Look at what’s working and what isn’t on a set cadence.
  • Revisit terms as you grow. Volume and SKU counts change. Your agreement should keep up.
  • Keep the feedback two-way. The best co-packers will tell you how to make your product run better, and the best brands listen.

Next steps

If you’re getting ready to bring on a co-packer, three things will make your search smoother: get specific about the challenge you’re solving, write down your non-negotiables (certifications, minimums, timelines), and line up your packaging and labels early so nothing stalls on the first run.

And if labels are part of that picture, that’s where we come in. We print labels for brands and for the co-packers who apply them, so we can help you get the material, finish, and roll format right the first time. Take a look at our six questions to ask a digital label printer, or get in touch and we’ll help you sort out the label side of your co-packing setup.

Frequently asked questions

What is a co-packer?

A co-packer, short for contract packager, is a third-party company that packages your product for retail to your exact specifications. That can include filling containers, applying labels, assembling multipacks, and case-packing for distribution. You own the product and the brand; the co-packer provides the equipment, labor, and packaging expertise to get it retail-ready at volume. When a co-packer also makes the product for you, it’s usually called a contract manufacturer or co-manufacturer.

What is the difference between a co-packer and a contract manufacturer?

A co-packer packages a product you have already made. A contract manufacturer (co-man) both makes and packages your product to your formula. In both cases you own the recipe and the brand. Many brands use a contract manufacturer for production and keep the same partner for packaging, which is why the two terms often overlap.

How do you find a co-packer?

Start with industry directories and associations such as the Contract Packaging Association member directory and Thomasnet, use matching platforms like PartnerSlate, check category-specific resources such as BevNET’s co-packing listings for beverages, meet co-packers at trade shows like PACK EXPO, and ask peers in your category who they use. Because most co-packers do little marketing, referrals and directories often surface better options than a plain search.

How much does a co-packer cost?

Co-packers typically charge per unit or per case, sometimes by production weight or volume, with setup fees for new projects. Your cost depends on run size, product complexity, packaging format, and how much sourcing you hand off. Larger runs lower the per-unit cost. Ask for a detailed, itemized quote up front so you can compare partners on total landed cost rather than the headline rate.

What certifications should a co-packer have?

It depends on your category. Food and beverage brands should look for a recognized food-safety certification such as SQF, BRC, or FSSC 22000, plus GMP and HACCP practices and FDA facility registration in the U.S. If your label makes claims like organic, non-GMO, or kosher, your co-packer needs the matching certification to support them.

Do co-packers supply the labels or do I?

It varies. Some co-packers source and print your labels as part of the job, while many ask you to supply your own labels to their specification. If you supply them, your labels must match the co-packer’s labeling-line requirements, including unwind direction, core size, roll diameter, and a material suited to the container and line speed. Confirm the arrangement and get the applicator spec sheet before you order labels.

Why do my labels have to match my co-packer’s line?

Automated labeling equipment has fixed requirements for how a label roll is wound and sized. If the unwind direction, core size, or roll diameter is wrong, labels can feed upside down, jam the applicator, or not fit the machine at all. A label that looks perfect as a proof can still stop a production line, so match the roll format to the co-packer’s spec before the run.

Should I start with a trial run before committing to a co-packer?

Yes. A small trial run tests the co-packer’s quality control, communication, and whether your packaging and labels actually run well on their equipment, all before you commit to a large volume or a long-term agreement. It’s also where label and application issues surface while they’re still inexpensive to fix.

Ready to get your labels co-packer-ready?

If you’re lining up a co-packer, we can make sure the label side goes smoothly. We print for brands and for the co-packers who apply their labels, so we know what a clean run looks like. Request a sample pack to see and feel the materials, or get in touch and we’ll help you match your labels to your co-packer’s line.

Want to get the label details right before your first run? A few of our other guides:

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When Is Your Brand Ready for Printed Cans?

Most beverage brands start with labeled cans. Labels are flexible, the minimums are low, and when you’re figuring out your beverage lineup, that flexibility matters. Plenty of brands stay with labels for years because labels are the right fit, and that’s a perfectly good decision.

Printed cans are a different approach. They cost more per unit than labels, so it’s not simply a decision about one or the other. It’s more about which one fits your brand right now.

Here’s how to tell when printed cans are worth a look, and when sticking with labels might make more sense.

When Printed Cans Start to Make Sense

Brands usually start considering printed cans at the following times:

Your category leans toward printed cans. In some categories, printed cans are basically the standard. Walk down the energy drink aisle and nearly every can is printed directly on the aluminum. When a whole category looks one way, a labeled can can read as the less established option, even when the product inside is excellent, and it may get less consideration from buyers and retail accounts who are used to the category norm.

Volume is growing, and labeling is eating into production time. If you’re labeling cans internally, there’s a point where the process becomes a real bottleneck. We see this a lot with breweries doing 1,000+ cans per run. Handing label application off to a label converter is a common approach, but that will add cost too, so this can be a good time to compare both options.

You want one less variable in wet, cold conditions. The right label materials handle coolers, ice, and condensation just fine. A quality BOPP label, applied well, holds up well to moisture and cold environments. If you’re seeing wrinkling or peeling, that’s usually a sign the material or application isn’t matched to the conditions, and it’s often fixable by switching materials or label protection. Printed cans, on the other hand, take the question off the table entirely, because the ink is cured directly onto the aluminum and there’s nothing to lift or peel.

You’re moving into distribution with large retailers. Taproom-only brands have more room for a handmade, personal look, and that look often works in their favor. But when your cans sit next to nationally distributed brands in a cooler at large retailers, small differences get noticed.

None of these on its own means you should switch. Labels are often the right call, especially given the lower cost per unit. But if two or three of these line up, printed cans are worth running the numbers on.

Printed cans

What the Switch Actually Looks Like

Moving to printed cans is simpler than most brands expect. Here’s the basic process:

  1. You send us your artwork. If you already have label designs, they’ll need some adjustments for can printing (different dimensions, different bleed areas, barcode placement). We walk you through what needs to change. If you’re curious about the details, our guide to designing for printed cans covers the technical side.
  2. We produce a pilot can. This is a physical prototype of your design, printed on an actual can, so you can hold it, check the colors, and show it to your team before committing to a full run.
  3. Your team approves the pilot. Once you’re happy with how it looks and feels, we move to production.
  4. Production runs in about 10 business days from pilot approval. Your digitally printed cans arrive ready to fill. No separate label order. No applicator setup. No labeling step on your canning line.

What changes in your workflow: You stop ordering labels and brights separately. You stop scheduling labeling time. Your cans arrive finished.

What stays the same: Your filling process, your canning line, your distribution. The cans just arrive ready to go.

Labels vs. Shrink Sleeves vs. Printed Cans

Each option has a place. The right choice depends on where your brand is right now.

Labels Shrink Sleeves Printed Cans
Best for Early-stage brands, high SKU variety, frequent design changes, lower budgets 360-degree coverage, complex graphics Established SKUs, growing volume, retail shelf presence
Minimum order No minimum order quantity No minimum order quantity ~1,600-2,000 cans per SKU
Lead time 5 business days after artwork approval 5 business days after artwork approval 10 business days (after pilot can approval)
Durability Excellent with the right material like BOPP. Matching the stock to the conditions is what matters. Good moisture resistance Excellent. Ink is bonded to the aluminum.
Shelf presence Strong. A well-made label looks great, with a visible edge up close. Smooth, full coverage Premium. No edges, no seams, no peeling.
Sustainability Adds a label layer to the can Plastic sleeve is typically not recyclable with the can Fully recyclable. No extra materials.

 

Pro tip: A lot of brands use a mix. Printed cans for their core lineup (the beers or beverages that sell consistently) and labels for seasonal releases, collaborations, or limited editions where they need design flexibility and lower quantities. This isn’t a transition you have to finish. Plenty of brands run both formats for years because each one earns its place.

Printed beer cans

What Printed Cans Can (and Can’t) Do

Printed cans offer finishes that used to be reserved for big national brands with six-figure order minimums. Until recently, most printed can orders required 100,000+ cans per SKU with 12-week lead times. Digital printing has changed that completely.

Available finishes:

  • Matte and gloss 
  • High build (emboss) for a raised, tactile effect
  • Selective metallic, where the bare aluminum shows through your design for a natural metallic look
  • Spot varnish applied to specific design elements

The selective metallic option is worth calling out. Instead of printing a white layer under your entire design, you can leave parts of the aluminum exposed. It creates a metallic effect that’s built into the can itself, not printed on top of it. We see brands use this for logos, accent details, or background textures.

Limitations to know about:

  • Fine text needs to be 7pt or larger for readability
  • Barcodes work best in vertical orientation on cans
  • Your designer will need to think about the can’s curve, especially near the top and bottom edges where the shape changes

Our designing for printed cans guide covers all of these in detail.

How to Test Printed Cans Without Committing

One of the biggest concerns we hear is: “What if I invest in printed cans and they don’t work for us?”

That’s exactly why the pilot can exists. You can:

  • Check the colors against your existing labels or brand guidelines
  • Show it to your sales team and your retail accounts to get feedback before you commit
  • Test consumer response at a taproom, a market, or an event
  • Confirm the design works on a curved surface before running thousands

Worth knowing: Some brands order pilot cans for 2-3 designs at once to compare finishes (matte vs. gloss, metallic knock-outs vs. full coverage) before choosing their production spec.

Ready to See What Your Brand Looks Like on a Printed Can?

If a few of these signs are lining up for your brand, the easiest next step is a pilot can. It’s a low-risk way to see your actual design on an actual can before making any production decisions. And if labels are still the right fit for where you are, that’s a good answer too.

Check out our printed cans page to see what’s possible, or request a quote and we’ll walk you through the options for your specific brand.

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Barcode Basics: What to Know About Barcodes and UPCs for Product Labels

⚞ The Highlights:

  • What is a UPC barcode? A UPC (Universal Product Code) is a 12-digit barcode found on retail products. Stores scan it to identify and track items at checkout.
  • UPC vs. EAN vs. QR Code vs. SKU: a UPC is the 12-digit U.S./Canadian barcode standard. An EAN is the 13-digit international equivalent. A QR code is a 2D barcode for marketing or consumer-facing info. A SKU isn’t a barcode at all. It’s an internal product ID set by the retailer or brand.
  • Sizing: a UPC barcode at 100% magnification is 1.469″ wide by 1.02″ tall. You can scale between 80% and 200% of this. Always include at least a 0.25″ quiet zone on each side.
  • To get a UPC: register with GS1 (the global barcode standards organization), get a unique number assigned, and use the resulting barcode on your packaging.
  • The barcode is changing: the industry is moving from the traditional 1D UPC to 2D barcodes (QR-style codes that carry your GTIN). GS1’s Sunrise 2027 push aims to have retail checkouts ready to scan 2D codes by the end of 2027. For now you keep your UPC, and you can start adding a 2D code alongside it.

A barcode and a UPC may not be the most attractive part of your product label, but they’re the part that makes everything else work. A clean, properly sized barcode means the product scans at checkout, gets tracked through the supply chain, and shows up correctly in retail inventory systems. A bad barcode means lost sales, frustrated customers, and chargebacks from retailers. Below is what you need to know to get yours right the first time.

UPC vs. EAN vs. QR Code vs. SKU vs. GS1 DataBar

The terms “barcode,” “UPC,” and “SKU” get used interchangeably, but they’re different things. Here’s how they actually compare.

Type What it is Format Standardized by Common use
UPC 1D linear barcode used at retail in the U.S. and Canada 12 digits GS1 (U.S. / Canada) Retail point-of-sale scanning
EAN 1D linear barcode used at retail internationally 13 digits GS1 (international) Retail point-of-sale scanning outside the U.S.
QR Code 2D barcode that holds more data than a 1D barcode Variable; can encode URLs, text, contact info ISO standard Marketing links, consumer information, traceability
SKU Not a barcode. An internal product identifier set by the retailer or brand Variable, defined by the company using it Each retailer or brand Internal inventory and stock management
GS1 DataBar Compact 1D barcode that holds more data than a UPC Variable GS1 Small items, fresh food, healthcare products where space is limited
2D barcode w/ GS1 Digital Link A QR Code or Data Matrix that carries your GTIN and links to web content. The format retail is moving toward. Variable; encodes a GTIN plus a web link and other data GS1 Checkout scanning and consumer info in one code (the goal for retail by 2027)

The short version: a UPC (or EAN internationally) is what retailers scan at checkout. A SKU is an internal product code. A QR code is a 2D barcode that’s usually supplemental, not a replacement for a UPC. Most retail products need a UPC; only some products need GS1 DataBar or a QR code.

What goes into a barcode and UPC?

A barcode and a UPC are two parts of the same thing. The UPC (Universal Product Code) is a 12-digit number assigned to a product. The barcode is the machine-readable version of that number. Each part of the 12-digit code does a different job:

  • First six digits. The manufacturer identification number
  • Next five digits. The item number, specific to each product
  • Last digit. The check digit, a single number that confirms the integrity of the barcode

A product label barcode with an example UPC.

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Manufacturers apply for UPCs from GS1 (the Uniform Code Council). After approval, the manufacturer pays an annual fee to participate in the UPC system and receives a unique manufacturer identification number, which is used for all of that company’s barcodes. The item number is specific to each product and is assigned by the manufacturer (avoid duplicating numbers across SKUs). The check digit is calculated from the rest of the number to confirm the barcode hasn’t been corrupted in transmission. You can determine the check digit for any product with GS1’s check digit calculator.

Other types of barcodes

While UPC and EAN barcodes are the most common, GS1 maintains several other barcode types for different business needs:

  1. GS1 DataBar: A family of compact barcodes designed for items that don’t have room for a full UPC. They can carry product identification, batch numbers, and expiration dates, which makes them a fit for fresh foods and healthcare products where space is at a premium but data needs are high.
  2. GS1-128 and ITF-14: GS1-128 is a high-capacity barcode that uses application identifiers to encode multiple data elements in one symbol. Useful for complex supply chain needs. ITF-14 is designed specifically to encode a Global Trade Item Number (GTIN) on corrugated materials, which makes it the standard for tracking trade items in bulk through distribution.
  3. Two-dimensional (2D) barcodes: Think of 2D barcodes as the next-generation form of the typical 1D barcodes you see on most product packaging. The most common 2D barcode is the QR code. 2D barcodes encode data both horizontally and vertically, which lets them hold a lot more information in less space. And they’re about to become a much bigger deal at retail — more on that in the next section.

Different types of product barcodes

Should you use QR codes for product labeling?

QR codes don’t replace a UPC at retail, but they pair well with it. A study published in Sustainability evaluated QR code use on food labels and found:

  • Nearly 39% of respondents wanted QR codes used more broadly in the future
  • 67% of respondents agreed that QR codes make life easier

The study concluded that QR codes “included in product packaging, on labels, and in commercial spaces (shelves, showcases, posters, etc.) are considered particularly effective in providing timely product and brand information given their capacity to reach consumers when and where they are ready to purchase with relevant, targeted, and interactive information.”

The practical use cases we see most: linking to product information pages, ingredient sourcing or sustainability stories, video tutorials, loyalty program signups, and traceability for fresh or regulated products.

The shift from 1D to 2D barcodes (and what Sunrise 2027 means for your labels)

For 50 years, the 1D UPC (those vertical black bars) has been the barcode at retail. That’s starting to change. The industry is moving toward 2D barcodes (the square, QR-style codes) for checkout, and there’s now a date attached to it.

GS1, the same organization that issues your UPC, is leading a global push called Sunrise 2027. The goal: by the end of 2027, retail checkout systems should be able to scan a 2D barcode and pull your product’s GTIN (Global Trade Item Number) the same way they read a UPC today.

Why 2D barcodes

A 1D UPC holds one thing: a 12-digit number. A 2D barcode holds a lot more. A single QR code can carry up to roughly 4,296 characters, more than 50 times what a linear barcode holds. That extra room lets one code do several jobs at once:

  • Identify the product at checkout (the GTIN, same job the UPC does today)
  • Carry batch numbers, lot codes, and expiration dates, which helps with recalls and lets a register stop the sale of an expired item
  • Link to a web page you control with ingredients, sourcing, sustainability info, how-to content, or a loyalty signup

The piece that makes one code do all of this is a GS1 standard called GS1 Digital Link. In plain terms, it’s a way of formatting a QR code so it works as both a scannable retail identifier and a web link. The checkout reads the GTIN; a shopper’s phone opens the page. Same code, two audiences.
If you already put a QR code on your labels, it probably points to a marketing URL and nothing more. A GS1 Digital Link QR code is different. It carries your GTIN inside that link, so the same code a shopper scans for product info can also be read at the register. If you’re refreshing artwork anyway, it’s worth asking your provider to format new QR codes the GS1 Digital Link way so you’re not redoing them in two years.

What this means for your labels right now

Here’s the part that matters most, and the part that’s easy to get wrong: 2027 is not a deadline to remove your UPC. It’s the target for retailers to be able to read 2D codes. For now, the two codes live side by side.

The industry calls this dual marking: your label carries both the traditional 1D barcode and a 2D code during the transition. GS1’s own guidance is that until about 90% of retail point-of-sale scanners can read 2D codes and capture the GTIN, any product using a 2D code at checkout still needs the linear barcode on the pack too. So for the foreseeable future, you keep your UPC. You can add a 2D code next to it.

  • Keep your UPC. It’s still what scans at almost every register today. Nothing about Sunrise 2027 changes that yet.
  • You don’t have to do anything by 2027 to keep selling. If you change nothing, your products still scan. This is an opportunity, not a compliance scramble.
  • If you’re adding a QR code, make it a GS1 Digital Link code. That way the code you print today is the code that works at 2D checkout later.
  • Plan for two codes on the label. A 2D code needs its own space and its own quiet zone, just like a UPC. If you’re tight on real estate (small cans, slim bottles, narrow shrink sleeves), it’s worth working out placement before you commit to a print run.

Whether the move to 2D is on your roadmap this year or a couple of years out, the design rules for the codes themselves haven’t changed. Quiet zones, color, size, placement, and a flat printing surface still decide whether a code scans cleanly. That’s what the next section covers.

How to make sure your barcode and UPC actually work

Barcodes are graded on a scale from A to F. Higher grades scan more reliably across more scanners. The factors that determine the grade are mostly within your control if you set up the barcode correctly from the start.

Respect the quiet zone

Every barcode needs a “quiet zone”. A clear margin around the barcode with no text, graphics, or other printed elements. Without a proper quiet zone, a scanner can pick up surrounding artwork and misread the barcode, which causes errors at checkout.

The quiet zone should be the larger of these two measurements:

  • 10 times the width of the narrowest bar in the barcode
  • One-eighth of an inch (0.125″)

An example barcode with the approapriate amount of quiet space.

Use the right colors for your barcode

While colorful labels can help your product stand out, the barcode itself needs a simple color scheme to scan reliably:

  • Bars: use a single color, ideally black or another dark color. Avoid warm colors like red or brown. They don’t read well on the red laser scanners most retailers still use.
  • Background: the barcode background is usually unprinted, so it takes on the color of the label or packaging. If the label color is dark or warm, print a light background (typically white) for the barcode area and quiet zone.

Barcode colors for products

Pay attention to barcode size

Barcodes come in custom sizes the same way labels do. Yours needs to be big enough to scan reliably, but not so big that it crowds the rest of the label.

The standard UPC barcode is 1.469″ wide by 1.02″ tall at 100% magnification. You can scale up or down within these limits:

  • Minimum: 1.175″ wide by 0.816″ tall (about 80% of standard)
  • Maximum: 2.938″ wide by 2.04″ tall (about 200% of standard)

A visualization of the minimum and maximum barcode sizes.

Design the barcode at the size you actually need from the start. Don’t generate a standard-size barcode and then resize it manually. That can cause scanning issues. If you need a different size, generate a fresh barcode at the new dimension.

Place the barcode where scanners can find it

For products that scan at retail checkout, place the barcode in the lower-right corner of the back panel of the package. Keep it away from edges and creases, and leave enough white space around it so the scanner has a clean read.

The printing surface for the barcode also needs to be relatively flat. Bumps, creases, or curved surfaces (like the seam of a shrink sleeve) can cause scan errors. If you’re printing on a curved container, make sure the barcode sits in a flat zone, not where the curve is steepest.

GS1 has published Guidelines for Bar Code Symbol Placement if you want the full reference.

Once you have your UPC ready, request a free sample pack to see exactly how your barcode will scan and sit on our label stock before you commit to a print run.

Send your barcodes to the printer in the right format

Once your label design has the barcode in place, you’ll need to send the artwork along with the barcode files to your printer. In addition to the label artwork files, deliver the barcode in one of these forms:

  • An image file of the barcode you received from the provider
  • An Excel document with a list of UPC numbers
  • A PDF or EPS of the barcodes

A label printing expert testing a barcode label.

It pays to work with a label printer that has solid barcode-handling capabilities. A barcode that fails to scan can mean lost sales, frustration on both sides of the counter, and chargebacks from retailers if their systems can’t read your products. A good label printer will choose materials and printing techniques that avoid smudges, abrasions, and low-resolution issues that hurt scan quality.

Worth knowing: Thinking of using printable label sheets on a home inkjet or laser printer? Be careful. Home printers often can’t hit the resolution barcodes need, and the paper labels designed for home printers usually aren’t durable enough for most product environments (no water resistance, low tear strength, prone to smudging). Fine for short-run testing; risky for production.

How to get a barcode

If you’re starting from scratch, the place to start is the GS1 website.

In the U.S., you can either get a single barcode (a GS1 US GTIN) or register a block of multiple barcodes (a GS1 Company Prefix). GS1 has a helpful barcode estimator to figure out exactly how many barcodes. And what kind. You’ll need.

The process is straightforward:

  1. Choose either a GS1 US GTIN (single product) or a GS1 Company Prefix (multiple products)
  2. Enter your contact information
  3. Pay (price varies depending on quantity and barcode type)

One thing worth knowing: there are third-party resellers offering “discount” UPCs. Most major retailers (Amazon, Walmart, Target, Kroger) require GS1-issued barcodes specifically. Saving a few dollars on a non-GS1 UPC can disqualify your products from those retailers, so go directly through GS1.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the difference between a UPC and a barcode?

A UPC is the 12-digit Universal Product Code assigned to a product. The barcode is the machine-readable version of that number. The printed pattern of bars and spaces a scanner reads. They’re two parts of the same identification system: the UPC is the number, the barcode is the visual representation.

What’s the difference between a UPC and an EAN?

A UPC is the 12-digit barcode standard used at retail in the U.S. and Canada. An EAN (European Article Number, now called International Article Number) is the 13-digit equivalent used internationally. Most modern retail scanners read both. If you sell in both U.S. and international markets, you may need both, depending on which markets your retailers serve.

What’s the difference between a UPC and a SKU?

A UPC is a globally unique 12-digit barcode standardized by GS1, used at retail point-of-sale and recognized across companies. A SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) is an internal product identifier set by a retailer or brand for their own inventory tracking. SKUs aren’t standardized. Every company defines its own format. A product can have a UPC and one or more SKUs at different retailers.

Do I need a UPC to sell on Amazon?

In most cases, yes. And Amazon specifically requires GS1-issued UPCs (not third-party resellers). Some product categories have GTIN exemptions, but for most retail consumer products, you’ll need a GS1 UPC. Walmart, Target, Kroger, and other major retailers have similar requirements. Going directly through GS1 is the safe path.

How much does it cost to get a UPC?

Cost depends on whether you need a single barcode or a block of barcodes. GS1 offers single GTINs for one-product situations, and GS1 Company Prefixes for businesses needing multiple barcodes. Prices include both an initial fee and an annual renewal fee, and they vary based on the number of barcodes you register. Check the GS1 US site for current pricing.

What size does my barcode need to be?

A standard UPC barcode is 1.469 inches wide by 1.02 inches tall at 100% magnification. You can scale between 80% and 200% of that range. Minimum around 1.175″ x 0.816″, maximum around 2.938″ x 2.04″. Always include a quiet zone of at least 0.25 inch on each side. Generate the barcode at the actual size you need; don’t generate at one size and resize later, which can cause scanning issues.

Where should I place the barcode on my product label?

For most retail products, place the barcode in the lower-right corner of the back panel. Keep it away from edges, creases, and curved or textured surfaces. The barcode should sit on a relatively flat printing surface, with enough white space around it (the quiet zone) for the scanner to get a clean read. GS1 publishes detailed placement guidelines for specific product types and packaging.

Should I use a QR code on my product label?

QR codes don’t replace a UPC, but they pair well with one. They’re useful for linking to product information, ingredient sourcing or sustainability content, video tutorials, loyalty signups, or traceability for regulated products. Research shows nearly 67% of consumers find QR codes make their experience easier. The catch: a QR code takes up label real estate, so you need a clear reason for including it before you commit space to one.

What is GS1 Sunrise 2027 and do I need to switch to 2D barcodes?

Sunrise 2027 is a GS1-led industry initiative to get retail checkout systems ready to scan 2D barcodes (QR-style codes) by the end of 2027, alongside the traditional 1D UPC. It is not a deadline to remove your UPC. During the transition, products use “dual marking,” carrying both the 1D barcode and a 2D code. GS1’s guidance is that until roughly 90% of retail scanners can read 2D codes and capture the GTIN, any product using a 2D code at checkout still needs the linear barcode on the pack. So for now, keep your UPC. If you’re updating artwork anyway, you can start adding a 2D code alongside it.

What is GS1 Digital Link?

GS1 Digital Link is a way of formatting a QR code so it works as both a scannable retail identifier and a web link. It carries your GTIN inside a web URL, so the same code can be read at checkout for the GTIN and opened on a shopper’s phone for product information, sourcing, traceability, or loyalty content. It’s the format the industry is moving toward for the 1D-to-2D transition. If you already use a plain marketing QR code, formatting new ones as GS1 Digital Link keeps them usable when 2D checkout arrives, so you’re not redoing your codes later.

Get your barcode-ready labels right the first time

A barcode and UPC are one of many pieces in a successful product label. Once your design is dialed in, finding the right printer is the next step.

At Blue Label, we test every barcode before a full run. We print example labels, scan them with retail-grade scanners, and grade the result. We confirm that your UPC matches the bars. If anything looks off, we flag it before we print the production run, so you can fix it before it becomes a chargeback.

Ready to put it together? Take a look at our product label options, or request a sample pack to see how your barcode will sit on real label stock. Get in touch when you’re ready to talk through a project.

Back to all

6 Label Tips for Cosmetics and Beauty Products

⚞ The Highlights:

  • Cosmetics labels in the U.S. must follow FDA rules under the FD&C Act, plus the additional requirements added by MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022).
  • Required elements include the product name, identity statement, net quantity, ingredient list (in descending order), name and place of business, country of origin, and any required warnings.
  • The right adhesive matters as much as the design. Bathroom and shower environments call for high-solvent-resistance adhesives that can handle moisture, alcohol, and humidity.
  • Premium finishes (foil, embossing, soft-touch lamination, spot UV) are how beauty brands signal quality on the shelf without saying a word.

Cosmetic and beauty product labels carry more responsibility than most product labels. They have to meet federal labeling rules, hold up to moisture and frequent handling, and earn a buyer’s eye in a category where the package often sells the product. Below are six things we tell brands to think about when designing or refreshing a cosmetic label, with current FDA framework first and design and material decisions after.

1. Follow the FDA’s cosmetic label guidelines (and the new MoCRA requirements)

A cosmetic label that doesn’t follow federal rules can be considered “misbranded” under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and is subject to FDA enforcement. Two layers of regulation apply:

  • Long-standing FDA cosmetic labeling rules under 21 CFR 701, 740, and 700.25 (covering principal display panel, ingredient declaration, warnings, and tamper-resistant packaging).
  • The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA), signed into law December 29, 2022. The largest update to U.S. cosmetics regulation in decades. MoCRA adds federal requirements around facility registration, product listing, adverse event reporting, safety substantiation, and additional labeling elements (including fragrance allergen disclosure on a phased timeline).

If you’re updating a label in 2026, you need to be current on both layers. The FDA’s cosmetics guidance pages are the authoritative source. Bookmark them.

What counts as a “cosmetic” product?

Under the FD&C Act, cosmetics are products applied to the body for aesthetic purposes that don’t alter the body’s structure or function (soaps that only claim to cleanse are excluded). The category includes skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, nail polishes, eye and facial makeup, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, deodorants, and any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic.

Some products serve both cosmetic and therapeutic purposes (fluoride toothpaste, sunscreen, anti-dandruff shampoo, antiperspirant deodorants). Those are regulated as both cosmetics and drugs, which means more stringent requirements including FDA registration and adherence to drug manufacturing practices.

Cosmetic Product Labeling Guide

FDA cosmetic labeling guidelines

The FDA’s cosmetic labeling guide is the document that walks through the specifics. The required label elements:

  • Label statements required by the FD&C Act must be visible on both inside and outside containers or wrappers.
  • Ingredient listing and net quantity statement are required only on the outer container’s principal display panel (per 21 CFR 701 and 740).
  • The principal display panel must show the product name, descriptive nature or use, and accurate net quantity of contents (in weight, measure, or numerical count). Net quantity declaration sits at the bottom in a type size regulated by container size.
  • Solid, semi-solid, or viscous cosmetics are declared in pounds/ounces; liquids in U.S. gallons/quarts/pints/fluid ounces. Quantities greater than one pound or one pint should also state largest whole units, with metric measurements optional.
  • Name and place of business of the firm marketing the product goes on an information panel: street address (unless listed in current directories) plus city, state, and zip code. If you’re not the manufacturer, indicate “Manufactured for…” or “Distributed by…” before the company name.
  • Country of origin must appear on imported articles.

Declaration of ingredients

Cosmetics for retail sale must include an ingredient list. Professional-use products are exempt unless sold to consumers (and MoCRA tightened the labeling required on professional-use products specifically. Verify current rules with FDA before relying on the exemption).

  • The ingredient declaration must be conspicuous and readable at purchase. It can appear on any information panel, or on an affixed tag/tape/card if the package design doesn’t allow it on the container.
  • Letter height: minimum 1/16 inch on most packages; minimum 1/32 inch for packages under 12 square inches.
  • Off-package labeling is allowed in specific cases (for example, cosmetics in compartmented trays without a folding carton).
  • Ingredients listed in descending order of predominance, with two exceptions: color additives and ingredients at 1% or less can be listed in any order. Names must follow regulation-established terms; some can be grouped as “and other ingredients.”
  • For cosmetics also classified as drugs, drug ingredients are labeled first as “active ingredient(s).”

Label warnings

Cosmetics that could be hazardous if misused must carry clear warning labels and directions for safe use under 21 CFR 740. This applies especially to aerosol cosmetics, feminine deodorant sprays, and children’s bubble baths.

Manufacturers aren’t required by the FD&C Act to test products for safety, but the FDA strongly encourages it. If safety hasn’t been substantiated, the label must include a specific warning indicating the product’s safety has not been determined.

Tamper-resistant packaging

Liquid oral hygiene and cosmetic vaginal products sold at retail must be in tamper-resistant packaging, with a distinctive indicator or barrier that signals tampering to the consumer. The package must clearly display a statement about its tamper-resistant feature, which has to remain visible even if the feature is compromised (per 21 CFR 700.25).

Cosmetic packaging and labels

2. Highlight features and benefits that buyers actually look for

The required information is the floor, not the ceiling. The claims you choose to feature on the front of the label often decide whether a buyer picks up your product. The category-specific claims that carry weight in beauty:

  • Organic: signals naturally sourced ingredients to consumers seeking chemical-free options.
  • Vegan: communicates no animal-derived ingredients, which matters to ethical and environmentally conscious shoppers.
  • Cruelty-free / not tested on animals: signals that neither the product nor its ingredients were tested on animals.
  • Alcohol-free: attracts buyers looking for gentle formulations that won’t dry out or irritate sensitive skin.
  • Hypoallergenic: suggests a lower risk of allergic reaction, important for sensitive-skin shoppers.

If any of these claims are truthful and not misleading, they can go on your label. The FDA’s general rule is that claims must be substantiated; some terms (like “organic” or “natural”) have specific definitions tied to USDA or other agency standards, so verify before claiming.

Expiration dates: U.S. law doesn’t currently require expiration dates on cosmetics, but each company is responsible for the safety of its products. If your products have a meaningful shelf life, including the date is good practice, both for customer trust and for liability.

3. Plan label shapes and sizes for every container in your line

Unless you sell a single product, your labels probably aren’t a one-size-fits-all design. Common cosmetic containers include:

  • Airless bottles
  • Pumps
  • Sprayers
  • Jars
  • Tubes
  • Droppers
  • Compacts

Each one calls for a different label shape and size. You can keep your color scheme, font, and visual identity consistent across the full line, but you’ll need to adapt the layout, the required information, and any premium design elements to fit each container’s surface.

Cliff beauty products with custom labels.

4. Choose the right printing techniques and materials

Beauty and cosmetic labels are where premium printing techniques earn their keep. The right finish or technique can make the difference between a product that looks expensive and one that looks generic.

Cosmetic finish comparison

Finish or technique What it does Best for
Lamination (gloss, matte, soft-touch) Adds a clear protective layer over the label. Soft-touch lamination feels velvety; gloss adds shine; matte mutes shine. Premium serums, perfumes, anything that needs a tactile cue of quality. Soft-touch is the most-requested finish in luxury beauty.
UV varnish Coats the label with a thin layer of cured liquid for protection. Available as full-coverage or “spot UV” (selectively applied). Adding a pop of gloss to specific design elements (logo, product name) without coating the whole label.
Hot foil stamping Applies metallic or specialty foil to specific areas. Gold, silver, copper, and holographic options. Logo accents, brand names, or borders. The signature look for premium and luxury beauty.
Embossing / debossing Raises (emboss) or recesses (deboss) parts of the label for a tactile effect. Brand names, logos, monograms. Adds a hand-feel that flat printing can’t match.
Double-sided labels Printed on both sides so the back of the label shows through a clear container. Clear bottles where you want decorative imagery or ingredient information visible from inside.
Waterproof film labels Vinyl or polypropylene labels that hold up to water, humidity, and frequent handling. Anything used in the bathroom, shower, or refrigerator. Standard for most beauty SKUs.
Hang tags Custom tags attached to the product or package, separate from the main label. Extra branding real estate, special promotions, gift packaging, or storytelling that won’t fit on the primary label.

Material recommendations by product type

The product itself often dictates which label material is the right call. A few patterns we see often:

  • Skincare creams and serums (jars): BOPP or polypropylene with soft-touch or matte lamination. Holds up to humidity, fingerprints don’t show as much, and the matte finish reads premium.
  • Perfumes and fragrances (glass bottles): clear polypropylene with hot foil stamping or embossing. The clear material disappears against the bottle so the design feels printed directly on the glass.
  • Shampoos, conditioners, body wash (squeeze bottles): waterproof BOPP with high shear-resistance adhesive. The label sits in a wet, flexed environment and needs to survive both.
  • Lipsticks and small tubes: small-format polypropylene labels, often with a thin UV varnish or lamination. The container is small, so the label has to take the wear of being held, opened, and dropped.
  • Nail polishes (small glass bottles): polypropylene with chemical-resistant adhesive. The cap area is exposed to acetone-based products regularly during use.
  • Bar soaps: uncoated paper for a craft, natural feel; or BOPP if the bar is wrapped in a clear sleeve and the label needs to stay readable through condensation.
  • Cosmetic powders and compacts: small-format film labels with a fine-detail finish (often debossing) for the brand mark, and a separate ingredients label inside the case.

5. Pick the right adhesive for the environment

An elegant cosmetic label is only useful if it stays on the product. Beauty products often live in environments that are hard on labels: humid bathrooms, hot showers, cold refrigerators, frequent handling, and occasional contact with the product itself (oils, alcohols, acetones, fragrance solvents).

Adhesive performance

Cosmetic labels need to hold up against water, alcohol, plasticizers, and other harsh substances without losing adhesion or appearance. The right adhesive doesn’t just keep the label on the package; it keeps the label looking new throughout the product’s life.

High-quality adhesive types

For products that won’t see humidity, a standard all-temperature adhesive works fine. For products that will live in a bathroom, gym bag, or refrigerator:

  • High solvent resistance. Keeps the label adhering through exposure to water, alcohol, and other solvents. Standard for most beauty SKUs that touch water during use.
  • High shear resistance. Keeps the label intact through constant stress without tearing or cracking. Especially important for squeeze bottles and tubes that flex during use.

Match the adhesive to the package

The container’s material affects which adhesive will work best:

  • Soft-touch coated containers need a very aggressive permanent adhesive to bond properly. The velvety surface is harder for standard adhesives to grip.
  • Clear film labels on glass or plastic need ultra-clear permanent adhesives so the label edge stays invisible.
  • Frequently flexed packages (squeeze bottles, tubes) need higher shear resistance to handle the constant deformation.
  • Refrigerated products (some serums, eye creams) need cold-temperature adhesives that don’t get brittle below 40°F.

Glass cosmetic bottles with custom labels

6. Design a label people want to pick up

Walk down any beauty aisle and you’ll see the impact of label design as much as the product itself. Beauty is a visual category. The label is doing the selling. A few design choices that consistently work:

  • Use color psychology deliberately. Color carries emotional cues. Pinks and pastels read soft and feminine; blacks and metallics read luxe; greens and earth tones read natural. Match the palette to what you want the buyer to feel.
  • Build clear typography and visual hierarchy. The buyer should be able to find the product name, type, and size at a glance. Hierarchy matters most when the buyer is comparing similar SKUs in your line.
  • Add tactile or shape variation. Embossing, foil, and unusual label shapes give the package a hand-feel. In a category where people pick up the product before deciding to buy, that physical interaction matters.
  • Tell a story. The label is one of the first places a buyer encounters your brand voice. Even one line of copy that hints at the product’s origin, philosophy, or ritual can make the package feel intentional.
  • Try minimalism if the category is busy. Cleaner labels get noticed in a category where most competitors over-decorate.
  • Color-match the product to the label. A cohesive color story between the package and the product creates a unified visual signature.
  • Test patterns as a differentiator. Abstract patterns or unusual textures can give a product an edge on shelf without losing broad appeal.

Frequently asked questions

What does a cosmetic product label have to include in the U.S.?

Required elements include the product name, identity statement (what the product is), accurate net quantity of contents, ingredient list in descending order of predominance, name and place of business of the firm marketing the product, country of origin (for imports), and any required warnings. The principal display panel and information panel both have specific layout and type-size requirements under 21 CFR 701 and 740.

What is MoCRA and how does it affect cosmetic labels?

MoCRA (the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022) is the largest update to U.S. cosmetics regulation in decades. Beyond labeling, it adds federal requirements for facility registration, product listing, adverse event recordkeeping, and safety substantiation. On the labeling side, it adds new requirements including fragrance allergen disclosure on a phased timeline. If you’re updating a cosmetic label in 2026, check FDA.gov for the current MoCRA labeling requirements that apply to your product category.

Do I have to list ingredients on my cosmetic label?

Yes, for cosmetics sold at retail. Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, in conspicuous and readable type. Letter height is at least 1/16 inch on most packages, or 1/32 inch on packages under 12 square inches. Color additives and ingredients at 1% or less can be listed in any order. Professional-use products have different rules, which MoCRA tightened. Verify current requirements before relying on the exemption.

What’s the best label finish for cosmetic products?

It depends on the product and the brand positioning. Soft-touch lamination is the most-requested finish in luxury beauty for its velvety hand-feel. Hot foil stamping (gold, silver, holographic) is the standard for premium accents on logos and brand names. Spot UV adds shine to specific design elements without coating the whole label. Matte lamination reads understated and premium; gloss reads bright and approachable. Most beauty brands use a combination, depending on the SKU.

What kind of adhesive should I use for shower or bathroom products?

For products used in moist or humid environments. Shampoos, conditioners, body washes, face cleansers. Use an adhesive with high solvent resistance and high shear resistance. Solvent resistance keeps the label sticking through exposure to water, alcohol, and ingredient interactions. Shear resistance keeps the label intact when the bottle is squeezed or flexed. Standard all-temperature adhesives aren’t enough for these environments.

Do cosmetic labels need expiration dates?

U.S. federal law doesn’t currently require expiration dates on most cosmetic products, but the manufacturer is responsible for product safety. If your product has a meaningful shelf life, including an expiration or “period after opening” (PAO) symbol is good practice for both customer trust and liability. The EU and other jurisdictions have stricter rules, so if you’re selling internationally, check the requirements for each market.

What materials work best for cosmetic labels?

BOPP (biaxially oriented polypropylene) and polypropylene films are the workhorses for most cosmetic labels. They’re waterproof, durable, and accept a wide range of finishes. Clear polypropylene works well on glass perfume bottles where you want the design to look printed directly on the bottle. Uncoated paper fits craft or natural-positioned products. The right pick depends on the package material, the product’s environment, and the brand aesthetic.

Ready to put this to work?

If you’re designing or refreshing a cosmetic label, we can help you sort through the format, materials, finishes, and compliance pieces. Take a look at our cosmetic labels page for an overview of what we offer, or request a sample pack to see finishes and materials in person.

If you’re still looking for a designer, our designer directory can help you find someone who’s worked on beauty packaging before. And when you’re ready, get in touch and we’ll talk through your project.

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Anatomy of a Wine Label

⚞ The Highlights:

  • U.S. wine labels are regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Required elements include the brand name, class or type designation, alcohol content, net contents, producer and bottler info, the sulfite warning (if applicable), and the federal government warning.
  • Most required information has flexibility on placement: brand label (front) vs. back label vs. either. The brand name and class/type must be on the brand label; everything else can usually live on the back.
  • Vintage year, appellation, and varietal are technically optional but trigger specific rules when included (75% varietal threshold, 75–85% appellation thresholds, etc.).
  • Material choice (paper, BOPP, soft-touch laminate, foil) sets the visual and tactile tone of the bottle as much as the design itself.

Wine labels carry more rules than most product labels because the TTB regulates them under the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau’s labeling requirements. The good news: the rules have been stable for years, and once you know what’s mandatory and what’s flexible, designing a compliant label gets straightforward. Below is what every U.S. wine label needs, where it can go, and what to think about for materials and design.

What goes on the front vs. the back of a wine label?

The TTB doesn’t strictly dictate which side of the bottle gets each piece of information. Some elements must appear on the “brand label” (typically the front), but most can go on either label. Here’s how it usually breaks down.

Element Where it can go Required?
Brand name Brand label (front) Yes
Class or type designation (varietal name, “red wine,” “table wine,” etc.) Brand label (front) Yes
Alcohol by volume (ABV) Either label Yes (some classes deduce it from designation)
Net contents Either label, OR blown/etched into the bottle Yes
Producer / bottler name and address Either label Yes
Sulfite warning Either label Required if >10 ppm SO₂
Government health warning Either label (typically back) Yes
Vintage year Either label Optional (with rules if claimed)
Appellation / region Either label Optional (with grape-source thresholds if claimed)
Pairing notes, flavor profile, story Back label (typical) No

What Information is Included on Wine Labels?

Below is each element in detail, with the rules that apply.What needs to be included on a wine bottle label?

Looking for Custom Wine Labels?

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Brand name

Who made the wine? The winery’s branding usually appears at the top or bottom of the brand label, depending on the design tradition you’re working in (French wines often place the winery prominently at the top; New World wines vary).

Fanciful name

What’s this specific wine called? A fanciful name is a secondary name used to differentiate brands within the same winery. Brengman Brothers’ “Runaway Hen” is one example. Fanciful names are optional, but they don’t replace the need for a class and type designation. When you use one, the TTB requires an additional tax class on the label based on alcohol percentage. For example: “red table wine” or “white table wine” for wines under 14 percent alcohol; “red wine” or “white wine” for wines above 14 percent.

Vintage (year)

When were the grapes harvested? Vintage information isn’t mandatory, but it’s common because it speaks to the quality of the bottle’s contents. Especially if you’re paying attention to year-to-year variation. If you list a vintage, federal rules require that 95% of the wine come from grapes harvested that year (85% for wines from a state or county appellation).

Wine or varietal type

What kind of wine is in the bottle? This is where the grape or varietal type is communicated: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. Listing a class or type is required. If you call out a specific varietal name, at least 75 percent of the wine must come from that grape variety. Otherwise, the label needs a generic class designation like “red wine,” “white wine,” or “table wine.”

Appellation (region)

Where was the wine made? Region of origin breaks down differently depending on what you’re claiming:

  • State or county appellation: at least 75 percent of grapes must come from that location (federal rule).
  • American Viticultural Area (AVA, e.g., Napa Valley): at least 85 percent of grapes must come from that AVA.
  • State-specific rules: some states have stricter requirements. California, for example, mandates that 100 percent of grapes come from California if the state name is on the bottle.

Producer and bottler

Where was the wine made and bottled? If the bottling location differs from the winery or vineyard, both names and addresses must appear on the label.

Alcohol content

What’s the percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV)? Required on every label unless it can be deduced from the class designation (table wine implies 14 percent or less). Best practice is to print the ABV explicitly anyway, because consumers and retailers expect to see it.

Net contents

How much wine is in the bottle? Net contents (in milliliters) must appear on every bottle, either printed on the label or blown/etched into the glass.

Sulfite warning

If the wine contains 10 parts per million or more of sulfur dioxide, the label must say “CONTAINS SULFITES” in clear, legible type. Most wines have natural sulfites at levels above 10 ppm, so this warning appears on the vast majority of bottles.

Government warning

Under the Alcoholic Beverage Labeling Act of 1988, every alcoholic beverage label must carry a specific government health warning. The TTB-mandated text reads:

GOVERNMENT WARNING: (1) According to the Surgeon General, women should not drink alcoholic beverages during pregnancy because of the risk of birth defects. (2) Consumption of alcoholic beverages impairs your ability to drive a car or operate machinery, and may cause health problems.

This warning typically lives on the back label. It must be set off from other information and printed in legible type that meets TTB minimum size requirements.

Optional back label content

Beyond the regulatory elements, back labels often include pairing suggestions, flavor notes, and a short story about the winery or vineyard. None of this is required, but it’s the part of the label where consumers actually engage with your brand. Use it.

A TTB compliant wine label featuring necessary legal information.

Wine label materials: choosing the right look and feel

Materials and finishes set the tone of the bottle as much as the design does. Wine is a category where consumers pick up the bottle and feel it before deciding to buy, so the tactile choice matters.

Paper stocks

  • Smooth white paper: clean, modern look. Works for contemporary brands and design-forward labels.
  • Textured papers (felt, cotton, linen): vintage and artisanal feel. Common for premium reds, family wineries, and boutique labels.
  • Estate or rag papers: high-end, hand-feel paper that signals serious craft. Often used for reserve and library wines.
  • Kraft or unbleached paper: earthy, organic, sustainable positioning. Good fit for organic, biodynamic, or natural wines.

Film stocks

  • BOPP / polypropylene: waterproof and durable, works well for wines that will live in damp cellars or ice buckets. Doesn’t have the hand-feel of paper but holds up better.
  • Clear film: makes the design appear printed directly on the bottle. Common for premium and minimalist label designs.

Finishes and special treatments

  • Matte vs. gloss varnish: matte reads understated and premium; gloss reads bright and vibrant. Most premium wines lean matte.
  • Soft-touch laminate: velvety hand-feel that’s increasingly common in luxury wines and spirits.
  • Hot foil stamping: gold, silver, copper, or holographic foil for logos, brand names, or borders. The signature look for premium positioning.
  • Embossing or debossing: raised or recessed elements that add tactile dimension. Often paired with foil for a layered effect.
  • Spot UV varnish: selective glossy coating that highlights specific design elements (logo, illustration) against a matte background.
  • Wet-strength laminate: for wines that will sit in ice buckets or damp cellars, an extra moisture-resistant coating prevents the label from bubbling, peeling, or fading.

The right combination depends on the wine and the brand. Sample packs are the fastest way to feel the difference between paper textures and finishes before committing to a run.

Wine label gallery

Wine bottle design considerations

Wine bottles come in standard shapes (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Hock) plus custom or asymmetrical bottles. Each shape needs a label that fits its curve and proportions. Practical design rules:

  • Match the label to the bottle’s flat zone. The label should sit on a section of the bottle that’s relatively flat, not on the steepest part of a shoulder or neck.
  • Mirror or contrast the bottle silhouette. Some labels echo the bottle shape (rectangular labels on Bordeaux); others create deliberate visual tension (a circular label on a rectangular bottle).
  • Plan for the front-back relationship. If the front is minimal, the back can carry more story. If the front is detailed, keep the back focused on regulatory copy and a tight description.
  • Consider the cellar. Wines stored on their sides for years are exposed to humidity and condensation. Choose materials that can survive that environment.

For artwork files, send Adobe Illustrator files or high-resolution PDFs whenever possible. They preserve typography, vectors, and layer structure so we can verify dimensions and produce a clean proof before printing.

Wine bottle shapesFrequently asked questions

What information is required on a wine bottle label?

U.S. wine labels are regulated by the TTB and must include: brand name, class or type designation (varietal name or generic like “red wine”), alcohol by volume, net contents, producer and bottler name and address, the sulfite warning (if SO₂ is over 10 ppm, which most wines are), and the federal government health warning. Vintage year, appellation, and fanciful names are optional but trigger specific rules when included.

What does TTB stand for and what does it regulate?

TTB stands for the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. It’s the federal agency that regulates labeling, advertising, and trade practices for wine, spirits, and beer in the United States. Wine labels must receive a Certificate of Label Approval (COLA) from the TTB before the wine can be sold across state lines.

Does my wine label need a vintage year?

No, vintage year is optional. But if you list one, federal rules require that 95% of the wine come from grapes harvested that year (85% for wines from a state or county appellation). Many premium and varietal wines list a vintage anyway because consumers expect it for that category.

What’s the difference between a varietal wine and a table wine?

A varietal wine names a specific grape (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc) and must contain at least 75% of that grape variety. A table wine uses a generic designation (“red wine,” “white wine,” “red table wine”) when the wine doesn’t meet the 75% varietal threshold or when the producer chooses not to claim a specific grape. Both need to list a class designation; varietal is just more specific.

What’s an AVA and when do I need to list one?

An AVA (American Viticultural Area) is a federally designated grape-growing region. Napa Valley, Willamette Valley, Russian River Valley are examples. Listing an AVA on a wine label is optional, but if you do, at least 85% of the grapes must come from that AVA. Some states (California, for example) have stricter rules that require 100% of grapes to come from the state if the state name is on the label.

Why do wine labels say “Contains Sulfites”?

If a wine contains 10 parts per million or more of sulfur dioxide (SO₂), the TTB requires the label to display “CONTAINS SULFITES” in clear, legible type. Sulfites occur naturally in wine fermentation and are commonly added as preservatives, so the warning appears on the vast majority of commercially produced wines.

Where does the government warning go on a wine label?

The federal government health warning required by the Alcoholic Beverage Labeling Act of 1988 can go on either the front (brand) label or the back label, but most wineries place it on the back label so it doesn’t crowd the brand-side design. The warning must be set off from other information and printed in legible type that meets TTB minimum size requirements.

Do I need both a front and back label on a wine bottle?

Not strictly. The TTB requires certain mandatory information (brand name, class designation, ABV, net contents, producer/bottler, government warning, sulfite warning) but doesn’t dictate that it be split across two labels. Some wineries use a single wrap-around label that covers both sides. Two-label designs (front + back) are more common because they let the front carry brand and the back carry regulatory copy and storytelling.

Make your wine labels stand out

Once the regulatory pieces are in place, the materials, finishes, and design choices are what set the bottle apart on the shelf. We work with wineries on the full range of label types. Paper to film, matte to soft-touch, foil to embossing. And we’ll help you sort through which combination fits the wine.

If you’re ready to talk through a project, take a look at our wine label printing page for an overview of materials and finishes, or request a sample pack to feel the paper, film, and finish options in person. Our facility offers fast processing. Five business days from artwork approval to ship. With no minimums and an expert review on every project before anything goes to press. Get in touch when you’re ready.

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What Does Die Cut Mean?

⚞ The Highlights:

  • Die cut is a fabrication process that uses a specialized metal tool (a “die”) to cut a custom shape out of a material. Like a cookie cutter for label stock.
  • For product labels, die cutting lets you make any shape you want: contour cuts that match the product silhouette, decorative shapes, custom outlines, anything beyond a basic rectangle.
  • Three common die cutting processes: flatbed (low-volume, heavy materials), rotary (high-volume, simple shapes), and semi-rotary (the standard for most label runs because it handles complex shapes efficiently).
  • Die cutting is different from “kiss cutting”. Die cut goes through both the vinyl and the backing; kiss cut goes through the vinyl only.

Die cutting is the process that lets your label come off the press in any shape you design. Not just a standard rectangle. Whether you want a contour cut that matches your product’s silhouette, a decorative shape that adds personality to the package, or a custom outline that no off-the-shelf label can give you, die cutting is the manufacturing step that makes it happen. Below is how the process works, what to think about when designing for it, and what it tends to cost.

Die cut vs. kiss cut vs. standard label

Die cut is one of three common label cutting approaches. The differences come down to how the cut is made and what you end up with.

Format How it’s cut What you get Best for
Die cut Through both the vinyl and the backing Individual labels in your exact custom shape Premium product packaging, decorative cutouts, contour-shaped labels
Kiss cut Through the vinyl only; backing stays intact Custom-shaped sticker on a backing sheet Sticker sheets, promotional packs, multi-design batches
Standard label Cut to a basic rectangular or rounded shape Pre-set stock shapes (rectangle, oval, rounded square) Most cylindrical bottle and jar labels; lowest cost option

For a deeper comparison of die cut vs. kiss cut specifically, see Kiss Cut vs. Die Cut Labels: Understanding the Difference.

What is die cutting in printing?Image of a flexible die used for digital label printing.

Die cutting is a fabrication process that uses specialized machines and tools to convert stock material by cutting, forming, and shearing. In label printing, die cuts are used to create custom shapes for products that need more than a basic rectangle.

It starts with a part called, unsurprisingly, a die. A manufactured die is a specialized piece of metal tooling used to cut a specific shape out of a material. Think of it as a cookie cutter, except instead of a sheet of cookies, it’s a sheet of label material. The die presses or rolls over the material, cuts the label, and the excess material around the cut (called the “matrix”) is removed. The “die line” is the outline of where the die will cut. In artwork proofs, it usually shows up as a thick colored line so the printer can see exactly where the cut will land.

Die cutting comes in several forms, but three processes dominate label production. Below is the practical difference between them.

Flatbed die cutting

Flatbed die cutters use hydraulic presses and lifting systems to press a die down vertically onto a sheet of material. Generally, flatbed cutting is used for low-volume projects or for larger products. Flatbed presses are better suited to heavier materials over 1/8″ thick. Felt, fiber, fabrics, metals. Than to most label stocks.

For most product label work, flatbed isn’t the process you’d use. It tends to come up for specialty pieces, packaging components, or thick-gauge materials.

Rotary and semi-rotary die cutting

Both rotary and semi-rotary die cutting use rollers to pass webs (long, flexible sheets of label material) through a machine, where a rolling die attached to a magnetic cylinder makes cuts as the web moves through.

For label production, semi-rotary tends to be the better fit. The cylindrical die rolls in a single direction, but the press moves the web back and forth as cuts are made. That movement lets a single cylinder make multiple cuts on the same web, which means more complex shapes can be cut faster than they could on a standard rotary setup. After the cuts, the excess material is pulled away, leaving just the labels.

Rotary and semi-rotary machines can use either solid or flexible dies. Solid dies are steel cylinders with the design machined into the body of the die. Durable and precise but expensive to make. Flexible dies are thin steel sheets that wrap around a magnetic cylinder. They’re less expensive than solid dies, which makes them more accessible for small or mid-size brands ordering custom shapes.

Common die cut label shapes

Die cut labels can take any shape you can design, but a few categories show up over and over:

  • Contour cuts. The label outline matches the silhouette of an illustration, logo, or character. Common for premium product labels where the label itself is the brand mark.
  • Decorative shapes. Stars, hearts, banners, badges, ribbons. Common for promotional stickers, holiday packaging, and limited-edition releases.
  • Custom geometric shapes. Hexagons, parallelograms, asymmetrical cuts, rounded corners with notches. Common for modern, design-forward packaging that wants to feel different from off-the-shelf shapes.
  • Wave or organic edges. Softer, hand-drawn-feeling outlines that depart from straight edges. Common for natural, artisan, or wellness-positioned brands.
  • Brand silhouettes. The cut matches the shape of the brand mark or product itself. The label looks like a piece of the brand identity, not a sticker stuck on top.

What to Consider for Die Cut Labels

Image of custom die-cut labels.

The die cut process can vary based on what you’re making. The label design dictates a lot about how the process plays out. Some shapes are simple. Circles, ovals, squares. And we have dies for those readily available. For custom shapes or unusual elements, work with a label printer that knows the ins and outs of die cutting before you finalize the design.

A few practical tips for prepping artwork for die cut labels:

  • Avoid acute angles and sharp corners. They can tear when the matrix is removed after cutting. Round any corner that doesn’t have to be sharp.
  • Mind the spacing around holes or interior cuts. If your design has cutouts inside the label (a window, a hole), leave enough material around them. Thin strips between a hole and the edge tear easily during matrix removal.
  • Add bleed. Extend your design artwork at least 1/16″ past the edge of the label outline. Bleed prevents accidental white edges if the cut lands a hair off-register.
  • Set up the die line correctly in your artwork file. In Adobe Illustrator, mark the die line as a specific spot color and put it on its own layer as a joined line. This is what tells the printer where to cut.
  • Round critical corners with a small radius. Even on shapes that look angular, a 1–2pt corner radius makes peel-and-stick cleaner and reduces edge curling over time.

Seeing die cutting in person tells you more than any mockup. Request a free sample pack and we’ll include examples of our custom die-cut labels cut to real product shapes.

What do die cut labels cost?

There’s no single price for a die cut label. The factors that drive cost:

  • Quantity. Like all printing, per-label cost drops as the run grows. Setup costs amortize across more labels.
  • Material. Vinyl and BOPP are mid-priced; paper is typically lower; specialty films, foils, and eco-friendly materials run higher.
  • Number of colors and finishes. Standard CMYK is the baseline; metallics, spot UV, embossing, and special inks add cost.
  • Shape complexity. Simple shapes (circles, ovals, rounded rectangles) use existing dies and are inexpensive. Custom or intricate shapes may require a new die to be made, which is a one-time cost amortized over the run.
  • Whether a custom die needs to be made. A flexible die for a custom shape costs less than a solid die but still represents an upfront cost. We have over 2,000 dies on hand, so for many shapes there’s nothing to make from scratch.

For a real number, send us your design, run size, and material preference and we’ll quote it.

Frequently asked questions

What does “die cut” mean for product labels?

Die cut means the label has been cut into a custom shape using a specialized metal tool called a die. Instead of a basic rectangular outline, the label comes out of the press in whatever shape your design calls for. A contour matching the product, a decorative shape, or any custom outline.

What’s the difference between die cut and kiss cut?

Die cut goes all the way through both the vinyl and the backing, so each label comes out as an individual piece in its custom shape. Kiss cut goes through the vinyl only, leaving the backing intact, so the labels stay on a backing sheet that can be peeled later. Die cut is the standard for individual product labels; kiss cut is common for sticker sheets and promotional packs.

What’s the difference between die cut and a standard label?

A standard label is cut to a basic stock shape. Usually a rectangle, oval, or rounded square. Using common dies that most printers have available. A die cut label is cut to a custom shape designed for the specific product. Standard labels are cheaper because they don’t require any new tooling; die cut labels cost slightly more but give you a custom outline that fits the brand.

How much do die cut labels cost?

Cost depends on quantity, material, number of colors and finishes, and shape complexity. Simple shapes that use existing dies are about the same cost as standard labels. Custom shapes that require a new die have a one-time die-making cost amortized over the run. Per-label cost drops as the run grows. For a real number, send your design, quantity, and material preference and your printer can quote.

Can you die cut any shape?

Almost any shape, with a few practical limits. Acute angles, sharp corners, and very thin strips between cuts can tear during matrix removal. Highly intricate cutouts may also be at the edge of what flexible dies can handle reliably. For most custom shapes. Contours, decorative outlines, geometric forms. Die cutting works well as long as the artwork is set up correctly.

Do I need to provide a die line in my artwork?

Yes. The die line is the outline that tells the printer where to cut. In Adobe Illustrator, set up the die line as a specific spot color and place it on its own layer as a joined line. The printer uses this line to position the die and to confirm the final shape before production. Send your artwork with the die line clearly marked.

What materials can be die cut?

Most label materials can be die cut: vinyl, BOPP, polypropylene, paper, polyester, and specialty films. The die cutting machine and die type may vary based on the material’s thickness and flexibility. Heavier materials over 1/8″ thick (like felt, fiber, or metal) typically use flatbed dies; standard label stocks use rotary or semi-rotary.

Need a die cut label printer?

If you’re considering custom-shaped labels, work with a label printer that understands die cutting from artwork prep through matrix removal. We have over 2,000 different dies on hand, and if none of those match your shape, we have the capabilities to make a custom die for your brand.

Take a look at our custom die-cut labels page for more on what we offer, or request a sample pack to see real die cuts on actual label stock. If you have specific questions about your design, get in touch and we’ll talk through it.

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What is a Shrink Sleeve Label?

⚞ The Highlights:

  • A shrink sleeve is a printed plastic film that slides over a container and shrinks under heat to fit the exact shape, giving you 360-degree coverage.
  • They give you roughly 150% more design space than a standard pressure-sensitive label, plus the option for tamper-evident packaging.
  • They work on any container shape — straight, tapered, hourglass, or unusual — so they’re a fit when a standard label won’t sit right.
  • Most shrink sleeves today are made from PETG film, with PVC and PLA as alternatives. The material choice affects recyclability, cost, and shrink behavior.

A shrink sleeve label is a printed plastic film that wraps fully around a container, then shrinks under heat to fit the exact shape of the bottle or can. The result is a 360-degree label that becomes part of the container’s surface, with no edges, gaps, or front-and-back panels.

Shrink sleeves picked up momentum decades ago when Tylenol started using them to combine eye-catching packaging with tamper-evident sealing. Today they show up across cans, bottles, and oddly shaped containers in beverage, food, beauty, household, and supplement categories. We work with brands on custom shrink sleeves all the time, and the right call usually comes down to the container, the design, and the volume.

What is a shrink sleeve?

Shrink sleeve labels are full-color, 360-degree printed labels that use heat to conform to the shape of a container. They’re typically printed on plastic film, then converted into a tube that slides over the bottle or can. Once the container moves through a heat or steam tunnel, the sleeve shrinks tightly to every curve and contour.

The result is a label with no front-and-back layout — your design wraps the entire container. It’s why shrink sleeves are common on aluminum cans, glass bottles, and any container with curves or unusual shapes that would be hard to label any other way.

The opening of a shrink sleeve label used for various containers.

Looking for a Shrink Sleeve Printer?

Shrink sleeve labels allow you to add a “second skin” to your containers. When the film sleeve is placed around your container and heat is applied, it conforms to the shape of the container to create a look like it’s truly part of your product.

Request a Quote    Get a Sample Pack

Benefits of shrink sleeves

The biggest advantage of a shrink sleeve is design real estate. You get roughly 150% more space than a standard pressure-sensitive label, which means more room for brand storytelling, imagery, regulatory information, and ingredient panels. For brands with a lot to say (or a lot they’re required to say), that extra real estate is the whole reason to choose this format.

Shrink sleeves also do more than just label a product. With a perforated shrink cap, they can serve as tamper-evident packaging — the same mechanism Tylenol popularized. They can also bundle multiple containers together for promotions, sample packs, or two-for-one offers, since the film conforms to whatever shape sits inside it.

Durability is another benefit. The film material holds up well in humid or moisture-heavy environments — refrigerators, coolers, showers, ice baths — which is why personal care products and craft beverages so often use them.

If a shrink sleeve looks like the right fit for your product, take a look at our custom shrink sleeves page or request a sample to see the finish on a real container.

How do shrink sleeves work?

Shrink sleeves give you a way to add branding and product information to a container, just like a standard label. The difference is in the application: instead of an adhesive that sticks to a surface, the sleeve is a tube of film that slides over the container, then shrinks under heat or steam to conform to the shape. A few steps lead up to that moment.

Creating the sleeve

Like pressure-sensitive labels (the sticker-style labels you’re used to seeing), shrink sleeves can be printed on flexographic or digital printing presses. The key difference is that the ink is printed on the inside of the film instead of the outside. That way the film itself protects the ink as it shrinks against the container.

Once the sheets are printed, they have to be converted into sleeves. Some printers, including us, do the conversion in-house so the film is handled as little as possible before it ships. Other printers send their printed sheets to outside converters, which adds steps and chances for the film to get scuffed, mishandled, or damaged.

Whoever handles the conversion takes the printed sheet, seams the ends together with a specific glue, and creates a loose cylinder open at the top and bottom. Each seam is inspected to make sure it won’t break open during application. The finished sleeves ship as either rolls or individual cut sleeves depending on how they’ll be applied.

A shrink sleeve slipped over a beer can.

Adjusting the design to the sleeve

One of the big draws of shrink sleeves is that they conform to any container shape: every angle, curve, or unusual contour. The flip side is that your artwork has to be designed for that shrinkage, not for a flat layout.

As the sleeve heats up and conforms to the container, the film shrinks more in some zones than others. Wider parts of the container (the body of a can or bottle) shrink less; narrower or tapered parts (necks, shoulders, hourglass curves) shrink more. If your design isn’t pre-distorted to account for that, the result will look stretched, squashed, or off-center once the sleeve is applied.

A few practical rules our team uses when prepping a shrink sleeve design:

  • Pre-distort the artwork to the container’s shrink profile. Your printer should provide a template based on your specific container shape and the shrink ratio of the film. Don’t design on a flat rectangle and hope it works.
  • Place critical elements where shrink is lowest. Logos, brand names, ABV, and ingredient panels work best on the cylindrical body of the container, not on a tapered neck or shoulder.
  • Avoid hairline elements in high-shrink zones. Thin lines, small text, and detailed illustrations can warp noticeably in areas where the film shrinks more aggressively.
  • Keep barcodes off curves. Barcodes that wrap around a curve can fail to scan after shrinking. Place them on a flat or low-shrink area, and test before a full run.
  • Plan for color shifts at the seam. Where the two ends of the sleeve meet, there’s an overlap. Designs with continuous patterns across that seam need extra attention to look clean.

This is one of the reasons we strongly recommend working with a label designer and a printer who have shrink sleeve experience. Pre-distortion isn’t a guess — it’s calibrated to the specific film, container, and shrink ratio you’re working with.

Applying the sleeve

Once the sleeves are ready, they need to be applied to the containers. If you don’t have applicator equipment in-house, an applicator partner handles this step. Either way, the sleeves are slipped over the containers and run through a heat or steam tunnel where the film shrinks tight to the shape.

Storage and shipping matter more for shrink sleeve film than for most label types. Because the film reacts to heat, it can pre-shrink (slightly tighten before application) if it gets too warm in transit or storage. It can also become brittle if it gets too cold. Either condition can affect the finish or render sleeves unusable, which is why proper temperature-controlled handling matters end to end.

Shrink sleeve materials: PETG, PVC, and PLA

Most shrink sleeves are made from one of three film materials. The choice affects shrink behavior, durability, recyclability, and cost.

PETG

PETG (polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified) is the most common shrink sleeve film today, especially in food and beverage. It has excellent clarity, holds color well, and shrinks reliably across a wide range of container shapes. PETG is generally considered more recycling-friendly than PVC, and many beverage brands have moved to it specifically for that reason. Higher cost than PVC, but it’s the default for most North American shrink sleeve work.

PVC

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) was the original shrink sleeve material and is still in use, mostly because it’s lower cost and has very high shrink flexibility. The downside is recyclability — PVC contaminates PET recycling streams, which has led some retailers and many sustainability-focused brands to avoid it. It’s also restricted or discouraged in parts of Europe. If recyclability is part of your brand promise, PVC isn’t the right pick.

PLA

PLA (polylactic acid) is a plant-based film made from corn or sugarcane. It’s compostable in industrial composting facilities, which makes it a natural fit for brands that lead with sustainability or circular packaging claims. PLA is more expensive than PETG and PVC, and it isn’t recyclable through curbside streams — it requires industrial composting infrastructure that not every market has. Worth considering for premium eco-positioned brands; not the default for general use.

Worth knowing: Recyclability claims on shrink sleeves get nuanced fast. The sleeve, the container, and the local recycling stream all interact. If sustainability is part of your packaging story, talk it through with your printer before you commit, and consider whether a perforated tear-strip sleeve (which can be removed before recycling) is a better fit than the material change alone.

Shrink sleeves vs. pressure-sensitive labels vs. printed cans

Shrink sleeves aren’t the only way to label a container, and they aren’t always the right call. Here’s how they compare to the two other formats most beverage and CPG brands consider.

Shrink Sleeve Pressure-Sensitive Label Printed Can
Coverage 360° full container Front and back panels 360° on the can body
Container shape flexibility Any shape, including curves and contours Best on cylindrical or flat surfaces Aluminum cans only
Tamper-evident option Yes (with perforated shrink cap) Not typically Not applicable
Application method Heat or steam tunnel Self-adhesive Direct print on the can
Best for Multi-shape containers, full-wrap branding, regulatory-heavy products Standard bottles, cans, jars; smaller runs; quick changes High-volume can production, retail, distribution
Setup cost Higher (sleeve conversion + applicator) Lower Variable; lower with digital direct-to-object printing
Per-unit cost at scale Mid Low to mid Drops as run size grows
Typical minimum order Mid (thousands) Low (hundreds) Around 1,500–2,000 cans per design with digital printing

 

The short version: shrink sleeves are the right call when the container shape demands full coverage, when you need tamper-evidence, or when you have more brand or regulatory information than a flat label can hold. Pressure-sensitive labels are the most flexible and the easiest to change, which makes them the standard for short runs and frequent design updates. Printed cans are usually the play once your volume justifies a planned run on aluminum.

What do shrink sleeves cost?

There’s no single price for a shrink sleeve. Cost depends on several factors:

  • Container size and shape. Bigger containers use more film, and complex shapes require more careful conversion and heat tuning.
  • Film material. PETG is mid-priced; PVC is the lowest cost; PLA is the highest.
  • Print run quantity. Like all printing, per-unit cost drops as the run gets bigger. Setup costs are amortized across more sleeves.
  • Number of colors and finishes. Standard CMYK runs cheaper than designs with metallics, custom inks, or special effects.
  • Design complexity. Heavy distortion mapping or multi-SKU variant work adds prepress time.
  • Application method. If you’re applying in-house, you’re set. If you need an applicator partner, that’s a separate cost line.

For a real number, the fastest path is a quick conversation about your container, your run size, and your design. We can ballpark quickly and refine as the artwork develops.

How to work with a shrink sleeve label company

Once you’re ready to move forward, the process looks like this:

  • Have your design ready or find a designer who can prep one. If you don’t have a designer in-house, our designer directory is a starting point for finding someone who’s worked on shrink sleeves before.
  • Get your container specs and quantity to the printer. Container shape, neck-to-base dimensions, run size, and timeline drive the quote.
  • Work through pre-distortion together. Your printer will provide a distortion template based on your specific container. Don’t skip this step or trust a generic distortion file.
  • Approve a proof before production. A press proof (or for digital, a sample run) on the actual film and container is the only reliable way to confirm color, fit, and finish before a full run.
  • Plan the application. If you don’t have an applicator, your printer can usually point you to one or coordinate the handoff so the sleeves arrive ready to go.

At Blue Label, we handle shrink sleeve printing and conversion in-house, which means fewer hands on your film and a single point of contact through the project. We’ll also flag practical issues — barcode placement, color match concerns, design elements that won’t survive distortion — before they become reprint problems.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the difference between a shrink sleeve and a pressure-sensitive label?

A pressure-sensitive label is a sticker. It has adhesive on the back and sticks to a flat or cylindrical surface. A shrink sleeve is a printed film that slides over the container as a tube, then shrinks under heat to fit the exact shape. Pressure-sensitive labels typically cover front and back panels; shrink sleeves wrap the whole container.

What materials are shrink sleeves made of?

The three common materials are PETG (most popular today, good clarity, mid-priced, more recycling-friendly than PVC), PVC (lower cost, very high shrink flexibility, but recyclability concerns), and PLA (plant-based, compostable in industrial facilities, premium price). Most beverage and food brands work in PETG.

Are shrink sleeves recyclable?

It depends on the film and the local recycling stream. PETG sleeves are generally easier to recycle than PVC, which can contaminate PET streams. Some brands use perforated tear-strip sleeves so the consumer can remove the sleeve before recycling the container. PLA is compostable but requires industrial composting infrastructure, not curbside pickup. If sustainability is part of your packaging story, walk through the specifics with your printer.

How much do shrink sleeves cost?

Cost varies based on container size, film material, run quantity, number of colors, and design complexity. PETG is the standard mid-priced film; PVC is cheaper; PLA is more expensive. The biggest cost lever is run size — per-unit cost drops noticeably as your quantity grows. For a real number, send your container specs and run size and we can quote.

What’s the minimum order quantity for shrink sleeves?

Shrink sleeve minimums are typically in the low thousands, depending on the printer and the press setup. That’s higher than the few-hundred minimums common with pressure-sensitive labels but lower than traditional offset can printing. If you need a smaller test run, ask — it’s sometimes possible with digital printing.

Can I use a shrink sleeve on any container shape?

Almost any. Shrink sleeves are uniquely good at fitting curves, tapers, hourglass shapes, and other containers that wouldn’t take a flat label. The catch is that more aggressive shapes need more careful artwork pre-distortion. Very tight necks or extreme contours may also be at the edge of what the film can handle without visible distortion in the print.

Why does my artwork need to be “pre-distorted” for shrink sleeves?

Because the film shrinks unevenly. The body of the container shrinks less; the neck and shoulders shrink more. If you design on a flat rectangle, your artwork will look stretched and warped after the sleeve is applied. Pre-distortion takes that shrinkage into account in advance, so the design looks correct on the finished container. Your printer should provide a distortion template based on your specific container.

Are shrink sleeves better than printed cans for craft beer?

Different tools for different jobs. Shrink sleeves are flexible — change the design, swap a SKU, run a small batch — and they don’t require a planned production run on the can itself. Printed cans give you the cleanest aesthetic (no separate label) and lower per-can cost at scale, but they require a larger commitment per design. Many craft breweries use both: shrink sleeves for one-offs and seasonal experiments, printed cans for flagship SKUs that justify a planned run.

Ready to talk shrink sleeves?

If you think a shrink sleeve might be the right call for your product, we’re here to help you sort through it. Take a look at our shrink sleeve labels page for more on what we offer, or request a sample pack to see and feel the materials in person. If you have specific questions about your container or design, get in touch and we’ll talk it through with you.

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