What Does Die Cut Mean?

⚞ The Highlights:

  • Die cut is a fabrication process that uses a specialized metal tool (a “die”) to cut a custom shape out of a material. Like a cookie cutter for label stock.
  • For product labels, die cutting lets you make any shape you want: contour cuts that match the product silhouette, decorative shapes, custom outlines, anything beyond a basic rectangle.
  • Three common die cutting processes: flatbed (low-volume, heavy materials), rotary (high-volume, simple shapes), and semi-rotary (the standard for most label runs because it handles complex shapes efficiently).
  • Die cutting is different from “kiss cutting”. Die cut goes through both the vinyl and the backing; kiss cut goes through the vinyl only.

Die cutting is the process that lets your label come off the press in any shape you design. Not just a standard rectangle. Whether you want a contour cut that matches your product’s silhouette, a decorative shape that adds personality to the package, or a custom outline that no off-the-shelf label can give you, die cutting is the manufacturing step that makes it happen. Below is how the process works, what to think about when designing for it, and what it tends to cost.

Die cut vs. kiss cut vs. standard label

Die cut is one of three common label cutting approaches. The differences come down to how the cut is made and what you end up with.

Format How it’s cut What you get Best for
Die cut Through both the vinyl and the backing Individual labels in your exact custom shape Premium product packaging, decorative cutouts, contour-shaped labels
Kiss cut Through the vinyl only; backing stays intact Custom-shaped sticker on a backing sheet Sticker sheets, promotional packs, multi-design batches
Standard label Cut to a basic rectangular or rounded shape Pre-set stock shapes (rectangle, oval, rounded square) Most cylindrical bottle and jar labels; lowest cost option

For a deeper comparison of die cut vs. kiss cut specifically, see Kiss Cut vs. Die Cut Labels: Understanding the Difference.

What is die cutting in printing?Image of a flexible die used for digital label printing.

Die cutting is a fabrication process that uses specialized machines and tools to convert stock material by cutting, forming, and shearing. In label printing, die cuts are used to create custom shapes for products that need more than a basic rectangle.

It starts with a part called, unsurprisingly, a die. A manufactured die is a specialized piece of metal tooling used to cut a specific shape out of a material. Think of it as a cookie cutter, except instead of a sheet of cookies, it’s a sheet of label material. The die presses or rolls over the material, cuts the label, and the excess material around the cut (called the “matrix”) is removed. The “die line” is the outline of where the die will cut. In artwork proofs, it usually shows up as a thick colored line so the printer can see exactly where the cut will land.

Die cutting comes in several forms, but three processes dominate label production. Below is the practical difference between them.

Flatbed die cutting

Flatbed die cutters use hydraulic presses and lifting systems to press a die down vertically onto a sheet of material. Generally, flatbed cutting is used for low-volume projects or for larger products. Flatbed presses are better suited to heavier materials over 1/8″ thick. Felt, fiber, fabrics, metals. Than to most label stocks.

For most product label work, flatbed isn’t the process you’d use. It tends to come up for specialty pieces, packaging components, or thick-gauge materials.

Rotary and semi-rotary die cutting

Both rotary and semi-rotary die cutting use rollers to pass webs (long, flexible sheets of label material) through a machine, where a rolling die attached to a magnetic cylinder makes cuts as the web moves through.

For label production, semi-rotary tends to be the better fit. The cylindrical die rolls in a single direction, but the press moves the web back and forth as cuts are made. That movement lets a single cylinder make multiple cuts on the same web, which means more complex shapes can be cut faster than they could on a standard rotary setup. After the cuts, the excess material is pulled away, leaving just the labels.

Rotary and semi-rotary machines can use either solid or flexible dies. Solid dies are steel cylinders with the design machined into the body of the die. Durable and precise but expensive to make. Flexible dies are thin steel sheets that wrap around a magnetic cylinder. They’re less expensive than solid dies, which makes them more accessible for small or mid-size brands ordering custom shapes.

Common die cut label shapes

Die cut labels can take any shape you can design, but a few categories show up over and over:

  • Contour cuts. The label outline matches the silhouette of an illustration, logo, or character. Common for premium product labels where the label itself is the brand mark.
  • Decorative shapes. Stars, hearts, banners, badges, ribbons. Common for promotional stickers, holiday packaging, and limited-edition releases.
  • Custom geometric shapes. Hexagons, parallelograms, asymmetrical cuts, rounded corners with notches. Common for modern, design-forward packaging that wants to feel different from off-the-shelf shapes.
  • Wave or organic edges. Softer, hand-drawn-feeling outlines that depart from straight edges. Common for natural, artisan, or wellness-positioned brands.
  • Brand silhouettes. The cut matches the shape of the brand mark or product itself. The label looks like a piece of the brand identity, not a sticker stuck on top.

What to Consider for Die Cut Labels

Image of custom die-cut labels.

The die cut process can vary based on what you’re making. The label design dictates a lot about how the process plays out. Some shapes are simple. Circles, ovals, squares. And we have dies for those readily available. For custom shapes or unusual elements, work with a label printer that knows the ins and outs of die cutting before you finalize the design.

A few practical tips for prepping artwork for die cut labels:

  • Avoid acute angles and sharp corners. They can tear when the matrix is removed after cutting. Round any corner that doesn’t have to be sharp.
  • Mind the spacing around holes or interior cuts. If your design has cutouts inside the label (a window, a hole), leave enough material around them. Thin strips between a hole and the edge tear easily during matrix removal.
  • Add bleed. Extend your design artwork at least 1/16″ past the edge of the label outline. Bleed prevents accidental white edges if the cut lands a hair off-register.
  • Set up the die line correctly in your artwork file. In Adobe Illustrator, mark the die line as a specific spot color and put it on its own layer as a joined line. This is what tells the printer where to cut.
  • Round critical corners with a small radius. Even on shapes that look angular, a 1–2pt corner radius makes peel-and-stick cleaner and reduces edge curling over time.

Seeing die cutting in person tells you more than any mockup. Request a free sample pack and we’ll include examples of our custom die-cut labels cut to real product shapes.

What do die cut labels cost?

There’s no single price for a die cut label. The factors that drive cost:

  • Quantity. Like all printing, per-label cost drops as the run grows. Setup costs amortize across more labels.
  • Material. Vinyl and BOPP are mid-priced; paper is typically lower; specialty films, foils, and eco-friendly materials run higher.
  • Number of colors and finishes. Standard CMYK is the baseline; metallics, spot UV, embossing, and special inks add cost.
  • Shape complexity. Simple shapes (circles, ovals, rounded rectangles) use existing dies and are inexpensive. Custom or intricate shapes may require a new die to be made, which is a one-time cost amortized over the run.
  • Whether a custom die needs to be made. A flexible die for a custom shape costs less than a solid die but still represents an upfront cost. We have over 2,000 dies on hand, so for many shapes there’s nothing to make from scratch.

For a real number, send us your design, run size, and material preference and we’ll quote it.

Frequently asked questions

What does “die cut” mean for product labels?

Die cut means the label has been cut into a custom shape using a specialized metal tool called a die. Instead of a basic rectangular outline, the label comes out of the press in whatever shape your design calls for. A contour matching the product, a decorative shape, or any custom outline.

What’s the difference between die cut and kiss cut?

Die cut goes all the way through both the vinyl and the backing, so each label comes out as an individual piece in its custom shape. Kiss cut goes through the vinyl only, leaving the backing intact, so the labels stay on a backing sheet that can be peeled later. Die cut is the standard for individual product labels; kiss cut is common for sticker sheets and promotional packs.

What’s the difference between die cut and a standard label?

A standard label is cut to a basic stock shape. Usually a rectangle, oval, or rounded square. Using common dies that most printers have available. A die cut label is cut to a custom shape designed for the specific product. Standard labels are cheaper because they don’t require any new tooling; die cut labels cost slightly more but give you a custom outline that fits the brand.

How much do die cut labels cost?

Cost depends on quantity, material, number of colors and finishes, and shape complexity. Simple shapes that use existing dies are about the same cost as standard labels. Custom shapes that require a new die have a one-time die-making cost amortized over the run. Per-label cost drops as the run grows. For a real number, send your design, quantity, and material preference and your printer can quote.

Can you die cut any shape?

Almost any shape, with a few practical limits. Acute angles, sharp corners, and very thin strips between cuts can tear during matrix removal. Highly intricate cutouts may also be at the edge of what flexible dies can handle reliably. For most custom shapes. Contours, decorative outlines, geometric forms. Die cutting works well as long as the artwork is set up correctly.

Do I need to provide a die line in my artwork?

Yes. The die line is the outline that tells the printer where to cut. In Adobe Illustrator, set up the die line as a specific spot color and place it on its own layer as a joined line. The printer uses this line to position the die and to confirm the final shape before production. Send your artwork with the die line clearly marked.

What materials can be die cut?

Most label materials can be die cut: vinyl, BOPP, polypropylene, paper, polyester, and specialty films. The die cutting machine and die type may vary based on the material’s thickness and flexibility. Heavier materials over 1/8″ thick (like felt, fiber, or metal) typically use flatbed dies; standard label stocks use rotary or semi-rotary.

Need a die cut label printer?

If you’re considering custom-shaped labels, work with a label printer that understands die cutting from artwork prep through matrix removal. We have over 2,000 different dies on hand, and if none of those match your shape, we have the capabilities to make a custom die for your brand.

Take a look at our custom die-cut labels page for more on what we offer, or request a sample pack to see real die cuts on actual label stock. If you have specific questions about your design, get in touch and we’ll talk through it.

Designing for Printed Cans: What You Need to Know

If this is your first time switching from labels to printed cans, the goal isn’t to redesign everything, it’s to understand how can printing is different from labels or sleeves and how to brief your designer so the final result looks exactly the way you expect.

The biggest difference:

Artwork is printed directly onto the can using high-speed digital inkjet technology with the can rotating while ink is applied. That process changes how fine details, text, color layering, and registration behave compared to pressure-sensitive labels or shrink sleeves.

We’ll walk through the adjustments you need to make to get great looking printed cans without any surprises.

Core Design Differences Your Designer Needs to Know

1. Fine Text and Line Work

Printed can technology uses multiple print heads and layered color separations, and the resolution is lower than what designers are used to with pressure-sensitive labels or shrink sleeves. That means very small text or thin lines can look less crisp than expected.

Our recommendations:

  • Use single-color black for small text, legal copy, and barcodes
  • Avoid rich black (CMYK black) for fine details
  • Avoid thin outlines or drop shadows on small text
  • Keep line weights above recommended minimums (0.1pt for lines; avoid ultra‑fine hairlines), and keep small text above minimums (7pt and up for single‑color text, larger if reversed out or multi‑color)

Printed cans design - fine text and line work

2. Barcodes

Barcode orientation and color matters more on printed cans than it does on labels.

Our recommendations:

  • Barcode print direction should run vertically (bottom to top)
  • Minimum size should be 85% normal size. Some customers do choose to use a reduced barcode size, however, the Bar Code Council and ANSI scanning requirements advise that the code bars should not be truncated (shortened) or reduced, but in full size. 

Printed cans design - barcodes

3. Gradients and Color Blends

Printed cans handle large color fields and imagery very well. Issues tend to appear when gradients are extremely subtle, when many colors are stacked into small areas, or when fine text sits on top of complex blends.

Our recommendations:

  • Use gradients with clear tonal separation and sufficient contrast; avoid ultra‑subtle fades (for example, 1–2% tint steps) and very long, low‑contrast blends that can band or break up at ~900 DPI on a rotating can
  • Avoid placing small text over busy or highly detailed backgrounds
  • Reduce the number of inks used to build text and small graphic elements. Specifically, avoid CMYK or multi‑color builds for typography; use single‑ink colors where possible, and limit text to one color (or two at most) to reduce registration risk across multiple print heads.

Printed cans design - gradients and color blends

Designing for the Can’s Shape

Neck (Top) and Chime (Bottom) Live Areas

With cans, the neck and chime curves matter from a design standpoint.

  • The very top and bottom of the can curve more, which can cause distortion, softening, or loss of clarity in small text and fine details as ink is applied over tighter radii
  • Text and fine details should stay within designated safe zones, typically keeping critical text and thin line work at least 15mm away from the very top flange and bottom of the can, where curvature increases and print clarity is more likely to degrade
  • Many successful designs transition to solid color or simple patterns near the top

We can provide templates, and it also helps to tell designers early that the top and bottom of the can are not ideal places for critical text.

Using the Aluminum Can as a Design Feature

One advantage that often gets overlooked is the metallic nature of the can itself.

Designers can let the natural aluminum show through, use selective white ink to control where metallic effects appear, and create shimmer or depth without foils or specialty materials.

Common ways designers and brands use the aluminum itself as a design feature include:

  • Metallic highlights: Leaving aluminum exposed behind logos, illustrations, or key accents to create natural shine without foil or specialty coatings.
  • Patterned metallic fields: Using repeating patterns or textures with selective white ink to create contrast between matte inked areas and reflective metal.
  • Depth and layering effects: Letting metallic areas sit behind translucent or lightly inked colors to create visual depth and dimensionality.
  • Premium negative space: Intentionally unprinted areas that give the design space.

Embellishments You Can Use Digitally

Digitally printed cans support several embellishments without plates or added materials. Everything is applied inline during printing.

Embellishment What It Does When to Use It
Matte finish Reduces glare and softens the look Premium, modern brands
Gloss finish Adds shine and contrast Bold graphics and shelf impact
Gloss finish Adds extra sheen and depth Highlight areas and logos
High Build/Emboss Creates tactile texture Logos, typography, focal elements

File Preparation

Here are some baseline expectations to communicate with your graphic designer:

  • Fonts outlined (no live fonts in final files)
  • Images embedded, not linked (no external file dependencies)
  • Files must be CMYK (no RGB)
  • Raster images supplied at 300 DPI at final print size; avoid upscaling low‑resolution assets
  • Spot colors used only when explicitly specified and approved for the digital can workflow
  • Create separate layers for selective white/metallic printing or selective varnish

Proofing and Prototyping Options

There are several ways to proof and validate artwork before moving into full production. Depending on the project, proofing options could include:

  • Digital proofs: Used to review layout, copy, color intent, and overall composition before anything is printed.
  • Pilot cans: Physically printed cans that show real color on aluminum, text clarity, embellishment effects, and how the design behaves under lighting, moisture, and handling.

Pre-Flight Checklist: 10 Things to Check

Before finalizing artwork, make sure you can confidently check the following:

  1. Small text is single-color where possible, and meets minimum size guidelines (generally 7pt or larger)
  2. Line weights meet minimum thresholds (generally 0.1pt or heavier)
  3. Barcodes are oriented vertically
  4. Gradients use sufficient contrast and avoid ultra-subtle tint steps
  5. Fine outlines, drop shadows, and multi-color text builds are minimized
  6. Critical text and details stay within top and bottom safe zones (15mm from the neck and chime)
  7. Use of exposed aluminum or metallic effects is planned (if desired)
  8. Embellishments (matte, gloss, high-gloss top coat, raised ink) are clearly defined
  9. Artwork has been reviewed at 100% scale with digital-can resolution expectations in mind (~900 DPI)
  10. A proofing plan is in place

Next Steps

When you (and your designer) understand how the printed can process works, it becomes much easier to provide artwork with confidence and avoid surprises once cans are on the line.

If you’re exploring printed cans and want to learn more, we’re always happy to talk through what’s possible, answer design or production questions, or help you get a quote for your project.